to Kysylsu River bridge: Saved from a downpour

July 5, 2016

Yesterday, rain threatened most of the day. This morning, Jurabek says, "it rained during the night." After breakfast of porridge, we are driven back to the main road listening to Tajikistan music. Jurabek says "my people love the President. He ended the civil war and gave us a school".

After unloading gear and bikes, we say goodbye, the rain starts lightly.

We go downhill and through Obi Garm stopping for water and bread. Patrick says its nice to be in a country where bread is a staple. Rachel goes to buy bread at a road side stall, points to the bread and motions one. There are two others standing nearby, Rachel thinks the woman is waiting on them as she puts 2 bread, then cucumbers and tomatoes, apples, peach and apricots in bag. Rachel is surprised when she gives the bag to her! She tried to pay, the women shakes head, and places her right hand over heart.

Again, tough climbs today especially where there is no tarmac, but the traffic isn't too bad. On one tough hill, a car stops a man rolls down his window and gives us each two nectarines. We ate them right there and then! Just after another hill climb, we stopped at shop where touring bike was parked outside, Japanese guy cycling Euroasia, had started in Singapore and ending in Portugal.

We reach the bridge over Kysylu river and seek refuge from the pouring rain at the bus stall. We are looking for a place to camp and will need water. Patrick finds a water spigot in an abandoned looking building behind the bus stall. Since we are waiting out the rain, we decide to start filtering. A car pulls up, man says chai and points to house on the opposite side and back where the road turned toward the bridge. We follow and are waved into a garden where there is an open air building. The man indicates for us to take the bikes into the building. There is a platform with cushions and a clothesline. We think many cyclists have stayed here.

Under the supervision of 3 guys, we pitch the tent. Chai and bread is brought to us, then bowls of mutton soup with fresh sliced tomatoes! We hear thunder, the rain is coming down pretty hard. Then, "like a couple of drowned rats", Will and Jo show up! They were told about this place by a motorcycle group. They hang up their wet clothes, go inside for a meal and decide to sleep inside.

It's great to have a dry place to sleep and a hot meal, especially after a difficult day like today.