to Cow Dung Camp: reality check

August 9, 2016

“It’s crazy how the road goes over and down to the valleys” Jo says. “That’s why the main road doesn’t follow this route” Patrick says. “It’s a farmer’s road” Rachel adds. We have stopped at what we think is the top of yet another climb and check google maps. We are 17kms from Toluk as the crow flies, and 43kms by road.

When we leave camp our plan today is to get to Toluk, about 60 km away. There are some good hills between us and Toluk, and we miscalculated the steepness, and road conditions. Right out of our camp spot the road starts to climb, with the loose surface the road is too steep for us to cycle so we push. Jo manages to cycle it all. By the end of the day, we realize we need to forgo our leisurely breakfast we’ve become accustomed to since the Pamirs. By the time we get on the road it is already getting too hot. So today is a struggle, we push and sweat our way to the top of the first hill, 5kms with 350meter altitude gain before dropping down to a stream. The water is in the valleys not on the climbs.

A few more climbs, then there is a long downhill to a nice size river. From way above we can see the valley is populated by quite a few yurts and one or two permanent houses. There doesn’t appear to be any trees right next to the river, but a little higher is a grove of nice shade trees. Problem is that the cows also like this spot, it is covered in dried-up cow dung with a few fresh patties thrown in. We choose shade and stink over sun and push our bikes under the trees.

Jo has a conundrum; he needs to get the Bishkek before the 17th so he can send his passport home with a friend. He still needs a China visa to continue his trip and we have heard from many sources that Chinese embassies in this region do not issue visas to non-residents. They don’t want overland travelers in the Uighur region bordering Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. The solution is to apply in your home county and make it seem like you are visiting other parts of China. We did the same about a year ago and already have our visas. The short of the story is that Jo needs to keep moving to get out of these mountains and to Bishkek. We are spent though and don’t have it in us to get over the next big hill and to Toluk. So we say our goodbyes, our paths might cross again in South East Asia, or otherwise we expect him to come cycling to Boise someday.

We spent the afternoon in the shade of the trees. At first we considered waiting until the shadows reached the valley floor and then pitch our tent next to the river, but after a while we get used to the cow aroma and pitch on a relatively clean patch of dirt. The afternoon resting do us good, we both recuperate and Patrick goes for a swim with a couple of dozen kids in the swimming hole right below the bridge. The river is swift though and he lost his wedding ring in the current. One day, someone will find the ring and call it “my precious” (Lord of the Rings Reference)

All afternoon kids come down the hills on their horses or on foot to take a dip. They are very curious about these westerners, but keep a respectful distance. Trying to stealth camp is a waste of time in Central Asia, the herders always seem to spot you and it never takes long before the kids come to check you out.

Loaded hay truck making its way down the mountain. People are cutting the grass by hand and trucking it down for winter feed.

Cutting grass, wildflowers and whatever else grows in there.

Today's ride: 23 km (14 miles)
Total: 1,618 km (1,005 miles)

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