How amazing is this? Yesterday’s was such a uniquely spectacular ride, but today’s was nearly as fine. Perfect weather, incredible views. It really couldn’t be beaten.
We started the day with a fine breakfast at Il Tre Parchi, and then dropped down into town to continue our exploration of Randazzo’s attractions. Last night we visited the Greek and Roman churches, but we ran out of time and daylight to see the Lombard church, San Martino.
Afterwards, it’s up again - a not too painful 600’ lift up to the minor road that sits high on the northern flank of the mountain. This is the same route we followed from Taormina to Randazzo years ago when we exactly reversed today’s ride. It was one of our favorite stages on that tour, and one we’re excited to repeat in the opposite, easier direction. Once you’re on top it’s really an awesome riding experience, rolling along high above the valley floor, biking past black lava flows brought to life by brilliant scotch broom pioneers. We don’t see much traffic - one other pair of bike tourists going the other way, an occasional car or two, and a fair number of motorcyclists looking as if they’re having the time of their lives too.
After dropping down to Linguaglossa, the only town we’ll see all day, we stop for lunch and then climb back up to 2,700’ before losing it all on a loopy descent to the sea. Neither one of us really enjoyed this descent though - the road was a bit rough and both of our brakes are getting squishy and need adjustment, but it didn’t seem bad enough to stop. We’ll have to tighten them up before we leave Taormina though. Also, we biked through a few miles of appalling roadside dumps - this really looks like much worse problem on the southeast side of the island than elsewhere.
Once we bottom out, we have about five or so flat miles along the coast - just enough for our legs to stiffen up by the time we come to the final, steep, twisting climb into Taormina, our home for the next two nights. We’ll be staying again at the historic Hotel Victoria, one of our favorite stays from our first tour here.
The day gets off to a slow start as we pick the most direct route to Saint Martino church for a quick viewing on our way out of town.
There are two routes from Randazzo to Taormina - the valley route, that follows the Alcantara River; or the high route, which stands high up on the flank of the mountain. Which one should we take, we wonder?
The lava flows come right down to and past the road in places. I wonder how recent this one is. They should really been marked and dated, like the flows in Hawaii are.
About ten miles into the ride we cross a ridge and lose sight of the summit. It’s still a great ride though as we roll along at level before dropping fifteen hundred feet to Linguaglossa.
From our lunch stop in Linguaglossa (also see the video below), we get our last really good view of the mountain. From this direction we get a much different view of the crater.
Now this is how a beach should look - rather bluer than the ashen seas we saw at Cefalu. The landmass opposite is the tip of Italy’s big toe, Calabria.
Days just aren’t as interesting without a bit of adversity to spice them up. Here, in an effort to avoid a quarter mile of highway, we’re wading around a small creek that fortunately goes underground before reaching the sea. Deep, soft gravel makes for a tough go of it.
We always stay at this historic hotel when we come to Taormina. It’s a tradition! Besides, if it was good enough for Oscar Wilde, it’s good enough for us.
I have a soft spot in my heart for the Victoria Hotel. An elegant old place with a lot of history and some fine heirloom furniture, they didn’t flinch when we wheeled our bikes in the door. They treated the Mathers just as well when they passed through last spring.
When we come to Taormina, we always eat at La Zagara. It’s a tradition! Rachael has been dreaming of this fish filet crusted with almonds and pistachios for three years. It’s not a disappointment.
Who knows why I didn’t have that wonderful dish also, which I’ve also been thinking of for three years. For some reason I was tempted by the orange crusted filet - awesome, but not super awesome like Rachael’s dish. We may have to return tomorrow night.
There have been mutterings that we aren’t showing enough food photos, so let’s continue with the rest of the meal - a delicious lemon mousse, just right to share.
Ride stats today: 42 miles, 3,000’; for the tour, 1,003 miles, 69,600’
Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km) Total: 1,003 miles (1,614 km)
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Jen RahnLove today's videos .. scenery made more beautiful by an absence of motor vehicles.
And great to hear your voices on the picnic video. Nice zoom on the plume! Reply to this comment 5 years ago
David MathersReading your blog makes us want to go back to Sicily. Say Hi to Luigi at the Hotel Victoria and enjoy your meals at La Zagara. Some of our best memories! Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo David MathersSicily is such an amazing place. I admit I had misgivings about returning so soon, but it was a wonderful month. And yes, I did mention the other Bike Friday guests at the hotel, and they remembered you. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Gregory GarceauEnvy is a terrible thing. Could you and Rocky please go some place with miserable scenery and ugly food presentations? It might also make me feel better if you don't go to any more hotels in which famous literary figures have stayed. Thank you. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Gregory GarceauYou know, I do feel a bit guilty about that. Rocky and I seem to have way too much of our share of the good luck. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
