It’s easy and natural late in a longish tour to start thinking ahead to its end. We admit to finding ourselves doing that, especially given the oppressive heat and humidity that settled in several days ago. One of the best things you can hope for late in a tour is an exceptional day or experience to revive your enthusiasm. Our visit with Maria and Jack was such an experience of course, and we left feeling refreshed and upbeat - for about half of the way to Palinuro yesterday, when the elements started beating down our enthusiasm again.
Today’s ride to Maratea was another such experience, one of the finest rides of the tour. The heat and humidity were a bit less oppressive, the visibility good again, and we had enough of a tailwind and sea breeze to keep us ventilated and reasonably comfortable until the final climb to Maratea. Which was great, because we were able to fully appreciate the truly spectacular scenery. Let’s take a look:
The first half of the day’s ride skirts the high terrain east of Palinuro, ending at the coastal town of Scario. There are two options: following the coastline and then climbing over the south shoulder of Monte Bulgheria, or the interior route that begins by riding up the Mingarda River through a striking gorge and then circling the mountain on the north. On our first time through we biked the coastal route, which is actually the more difficult. This time, feeling the heat and our age a bit, we decided on the northern route. Pretty hard this way too, but a brilliant ride.
Looking up the Mingardo River. Those cows have the right idea for managing this heat.
Doesn’t that look great? The next time I eat beef, I’ll imagine it’s an animal who spent its days like this. This is a Podolica, a breed common in Basilicata that was introduced long ago from the Ukraine.
A local product stand on the hood of a car. This must be a common custom here - from our first tour, I brought back a photo from near here of a car windshield covered with hats.
Climbing up the northern flank of Monte Bulgheria. A lovely ride that climbs for seven or eight miles at a steady, gradual grade. The surrounding ridges have villages here and there perched on their highest ground. I should have taken more photos.
The ride to Scario was spectacular, but the ride from there along the coast to Maratea was even more so. The mountains come right to the sea here, with the road clinging to the cliffs as they weave in and out small inlets. A wonderful ride, up to a point - the point at which we abruptly leave the coast and start climbing up to Maratea, an old historical town about a thousand feet above the sea. Between the heat and the stiff climb, it’s a bit much for us and we push the last few hundred yards into town. It’s hidden from view from the sea for security reasons, and you don’t really get a view of it until your’r almost in town.
Looking down on Aquafredda. It’s hard to believe that the train follows the coast here, but for most of the distance it’s buried from sight in long tunnels. A very impressive engineering feat.
Maratea is a beautiful place, but we sat out the afternoon heat in our nice air conditioned room and didn’t see much of it today so you can’t either. We’ll be here two nights though, so hold that thought.
We can share with you though one of our favorite meals of the tour, at Taverna Rovita. It’s really an excellent restaurant, Michelin rated, and a bit of a splurge. Well worth it though - everything about it was appealing - the staff, the interior and decor, and of course the meal itself. An evening to savor.
Well, we’ll give you at least a sneak preview of Maratea. This is the alley leading to Taverna Rovita, on the right.
It’s nice to see the kitchen staff lined up and smiling our way when we enter. Nothing else for them to do yet but prep work anyway - as usual, we’re the first customers.
Everything was wonderful: homemade pasta with local sausage and crushed red peppers; sea bass with olives and tomatoes; zucchini/cheese contorni; swordfish roll.
And, since we’re indulging ourselves anyway, let’s try a slice of that fresh boccanotte there on the right. And, since you’re twisting our arm, let’s have a second.
