I’m getting seriously behind again, because the WiFi in both Peschici and Lesina was too weak to upload photos. So, we’ll let the photos tell the tale today with just a few brief notes.
A very easy ride today, with a completely different character from what’s come before. Other than a few minor headlands, most of the ride is completely flat. Riding conditions are fine, into a minor headwind too weak to create issues. We make few stops: at the supermarket to pick up lunch; at the piazza in Rodi Gargano, where Rachael drops her bike but gets lucky, with no apparent damage ensuing; and on a concrete slab on the edge of lovely Lake Varano, where we ate lunch.
The best part of the day was the ride along the edge of Lake Varano, on a narrow dirt path that surprisingly was blocked at one point by a fisherman’s car - he just drove down the path and parked the car in the middle of it. A close second was the extreme friendliness we experienced biking through Rodi Garganico. Rachael was stopped a few times in town by folks who just wanted to say hi, take her picture, and chat a bit. Rodi Garganico looks like it would be a lovely place to spend the evening.
The low point of the day was the onset of the issue with Rachael’s rear brake that we described a few posts back. We were pretty unhappy about this, unsure of what the problem was and of our chances for getting a repair. Fortunately we’re in such plane terrain now that Rachael hardly needs one brake, much less two. We end the day a bit glumly, considering our options.
And we end the day in Lesina, a lakeside fishing town where we plan to spend two nights. Originally the thought was to take a day ride back up into the hills tomorrow, but without brakes that’s out now. Instead, we’re looking at hiking opportunities. We’ll stay off the bikes until our flat ride to Foggia, where hopefully we’ll find a capable bike mechanic.
And, there’s Lesina itself, which we aren’t discussing here. Our experience in Lesina was exceptional enough to merit its own post, so stay tuned.
The view from the balcony this morning of our well-named lodging in Peschici, the Stunning B&B.
I’m sympathetic to Orpheus - I can never resist looking back. Here, we steal a last glance at Pischici. I’m glad to say that it wasn’t whisked into the underworld when I did so. Note at the bottom the secluded Jalillo Beach and small headland that conceals it.
They’re trabbuchi! It’s a fishing machine, characteristic of the Gargano coast and further north in Molise and Abruzzo. It’s operated by a fisherman who sits inside the cabin, waiting for the right moment to activate the machinery that raises the nets. It makes me think of the lazy fishermen at Meldrum Bar back home, sitting in their pickups with their poles lashed to the front of their cabs, waiting for the big strike. I wonder if they’re of Italian descent?
The next town west of Peschici, Rodi Garganico, also looks like an appealing place for a stopover. This is the last of the Gargano cliff towns though - beyond this the high ground retreats from the sea.
In Rodi Garganico we stopped briefly to admire the pretty Piazza Giovanni XXIII, leaning our bikes against the fountain wall. Taking this shot, I was surprised by the line of guys on the far left waving and shouting at me, like kids wanting me to take their photo.
West of Rodi Garganico the road passes through a narrow isthmus between Lake Varano and the sea. It’s only a half mile wide, but you can’t see either body of water for the trees. So, we left the road for this rough path to get a view of the lake.
Lake Varano, actually a lagoon, is heavily fished. Its northern shore is lined with tiny man-made harbors like the one on the right, just large enough for a boat or two.
An unusual obstacle in the path. We saw this in Japan also, along Lake Biwa. There, they were spread out across the whole path so we just biked over them but here we skirted around.
There are some beautiful and intriguing boats lining the narrow canal that is the lake’s outlet to the sea. I’ve fallen behind and am feeling guilty about keeping Rachael waiting, but I allow myself just a few fast shots.
West of Lake Varano we’re suddenly biking through a flat cultivated plain. The mountains steadily recede further and further from the coast as we ride.
