The Amalfi coast is surely one of the most famous coastal strips in Italy, if not the world. It ranks up there with the corniche ride between Nice and Menton, by way of Monte Carlo. It really is jaw-dropping the whole way, with one gorgeous seaside town after another tucked into a rocky cove, backed by dizzying cliffs rising up a thousand feet and tiered with lemon groves. It’s no wonder that it draws such a huge mass of tourists.
This is our second time here. The first time we rode the entire length, coming from Salerno in the east and continuing to Sorrento at the west end before doubling back east again to Pompeii. We went slow, staying that time at both Amalfi and Positano, the best known towns on the coast here. This time though we just stayed at the extreme east end and decided to ride as far as Amalfi and back on a day ride, with an embedded hike.
We’ve heard a number of times that this must be a crazy, death-defying place to bike - very narrow shoulderless roads, one blind curve after another, shear drop-offs to the sea on one side of the narrow road and sheer cliffs rising straight up on the other. Actually though, as long as you know what to expect it’s quite a good ride and sees many bikers. The traffic isn’t really that bad, and has to move slowly anyway - in many spots it’s almost a single lane road, and cars get jammed up in queues behind the buses so you can ride in quiet gaps. It’s actually quite fun.
If you’re unsure but tempted, the video might give you enough insight to sway you one way or the other.
We’re biking both directions, so I’ll save the photos for the way back from Amalfi to Vietri, when we’re on the sea side of the road and the light is better. First, let’s look at the hike. If you’re here and can only take one hike, it probably shouldn’t be this one. It should be the Sentiero degli Dei (the path of the gods), the unforgettable walk between Positano and Amalfi. Today though we’re less ambitious and are taking the rather easier walk through the Valle della Ferriere (the valley of the ironworks) into the interior from Amalfi. Having a quite different character that almost reminds us of the Pacific Northwest, it follows the course of a stream inland through a lush green canyon dripping with ferns and takes you past the ruins of an old hydroelectric plant, ironworks and paper factories. It’s a very enjoyable hike, but without the dramatic scenery of the cliffside walks.
You can make a loop of it, climbing away from the stream and returning higher up on the side of the canyon; but we decided to just double back the way we came so that we could stop at a café we passed on the way up that looked attractive.
Amalfi has its normal summer midday look - wall to wall tourists, rubbernecking and shopping.
The remains of the old hydroelectric plant. If I had more time this morning I’d research and describe its history, but I’m sure you can look it up as well.
Atrani, the first village east of Amalfi. The tunnel, the first of two, is nothing to fear. Both are unlit and narrow but short, and the cars single thread through them anyway.
Maiori is a larger place, and would be another fine spot to stay over - it’s more central and better located for walks, and still much quieter than Amalfi or Positano.
Jen RahnI agree with Steve. I'll just enjoy that stretch of road vicariously through your awesome video! Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Andrea BrownI am convinced. Not gonna ride that. You almost had your death documented by Rachael's camera. Then she'd have to find something a bit more doleful for the soundtrack. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
