Let’s start by checking in on Rachael’s accident yesterday. I’d say she’s doing better than expected and hoped for this morning. Her wounds look like they’re healing well, and in spite of some stiffness and achiness she still felt well enough to take a ten mile hike this afternoon. It’s looking like she’ll be fine, and back to normal in another day or two.
The scene of the accident. It looks innocent enough, except for the deformities in the tiled roadbed by the barrier. With all the foot and automobile traffic and barriers like this to focus on, we think she just failed to notice the flaws in an otherwise smooth road.
I, on the other hand, am still working my way through what looks like some sort of intestinal crud. We started the day with the plan that we would go our own way for a few hours in the morning and then meet up on the cathedral steps at one, grab something to eat, and take a hike together east along the coast. It didn’t evolve that way though. After at most two hours I was feeling drained again, so I called her up and we met soon after. We went to the store to pick up some suitable foods for my situation, so I’m trying a modified BRAT diet for a bit: bread, yogurt, bananas, and immodium. Yum, yum.
There’s actually a humorous twist here. Rachael commented that something like this happened to her a few years back, and she’s right. I found it documented in one of our journals: she came down with similar symptoms in Ragusa, just a few miles north of here - and had to struggle to make it to Syracuse. This must just be a bad spot for us.
It’s hard to say what the main cause was, but I didn’t find much inspiration in Syracuse in my walk this morning. It’s a beautiful day, and I enjoyed walking the perimeter of Ortigia and taking in seaside views all around. After that though I walked into the center and quickly lost patience with the crowds and tour groups. Syracuse is of course one of Sicily’s biggest draws, and even this early in the season it’s pretty congested. We’ve gotten very spoiled in the last three weeks, spending nearly all of our time on quiet roads and in nearly empty towns.
Graceful Umbertino Bridge connects Ortigia to the Sicilian mainland.
Maniace fortress, built in the 1200’s, anchors the southern extent of the island. I could have paid a few euros to see the inside, but it looks pretty great right from here.
The remains of the Temple of Apollo. Begun in the sixth century BC, it is the oldest Greek ruin in Sicily and was the model for a style of temple that extended to the whole Greek world - other examples include the Temple of Diana (now the Syracuse cathedral); the one we saw two weeks back at Segesta; the three incredible temples at Paestum, that we’ll hopefully see later in the tour; and of course the Parthenon in Athens. It’s a reminder of what an important city Syracuse was in the ancient world.
She’s looking for me, and is about to pull out the phone to call me. Somehow she’s failed to see me flailing my arms over my head to gain her attention.
Back in the room, I enjoy my yogurt/banana/bread feast and hop in bed where I sleeep for most of the afternoon while Rachael takes her hike along the coast. At the end of the day I’m feeling much better again. My digestion seems close to normal, so we risk going out for a meal. We go to the same restaurant as last night again, and Rachael has a second shot at that amazing sea bass with zucchini and Parmesan. I optimistically have chicken breast with tomatoes and olives, which seems pretty tame.
Afterwards we take a short stroll through town, admiring the flamboyant Fountain of Diana and above all the cathedral and its splendid plaza surrounding it. After dark, with the day trippers gone and the monuments illuminated, Syracuse quickly regains its magical aura.
Looking up at this incomparable cathedral it is impossible to not contemplate on yesterday’s horror, the conflagration of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. We are so fortunate to still have these treasures with us. They seem so timeless but they come and go, and often evolve - the Syracuse Cathedral dates back to the seventh century, but it is itself a second act. It began as the Greek Temple of Athena, built in the fifth century BC, and its Doric columns and capitals are still visible on the broad north wall.
The figures crowning the cathedral (two others were shown in yesterday’s post) all seem exceptional to me. This one has such an aura of radiant serenity.
Catherine HastingsI loved this town - maybe my favourite so far in Sicily. I promised myself, next time, to stay a week. Lots of time to wander every street, and staying in an apartment so I could go crazy in the wonderful food markets!
Really enjoying this journal - thanks. It's taking me back. Although I was there September/October so not the abundance of flowers... Your photos are beautiful.
Looking forward to Etna. I loved the landscapes, but found the number of people living and farming on the face of the volcano confronting. I know the soil is great. But?!? Look at all that lava - a bit suggestive? Cute local train between the towns! Have fun!! Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Catherine HastingsThanks for joining us, Catherine. If you do come back and need an apartment, I can really recommend this one. It’s perfect, really. And yes, come in the spring. If we come a third time some year though, I would like to see it in the colors of autumn. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
