September 14, 2023
Early Riser
It’s a long day ahead and there are cancelled ferries. If I want to get to Orcas Island, I need to catch the early boat. But I don’t trust myself not to fall back asleep in the warm bag, so I reach behind my head and open the sleeping pad valve half a twist to let the air slowly leak out. After a few minutes laying on the hard ground, getting up seems like a fine idea.
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I’ve never cycled on Orcas, and for good reason. It’s the top of a mountain sticking out of the sea, always uphill or down, with narrow roads, fast drivers, dappled sunlight, and obscured corners. I’m relieved when a long line of ferry traffic appears behind me a few miles from the dock. I can hang out by the side of the road for ten minutes and catch my breath while I pretend I’m waiting to let all the cars and trucks speed past.
Rolling hills and just-painted road stripes bring me north up Crow Valley and on to Eastsound and the first diner breakfast I’ve had in longer than I can think of.
I ride out to a beach at the north end of the island where I look out at the low-slung outlines of Waldron, Patos, Matia, and Sucia islands. I love Sucia more than just about anywhere on earth, but I haven’t been there in years. That changes in the morning. I’m taking a small boat out there and plan to spend two days hiking every trail on the island.
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