We had become fond of Passau, having taken the extra days needed to get to know a place a bit, and having enjoed being here with all our friends. We got a chance for one quick last look as we crossed the bridge over the Donau from the Camping and passed through Passau to reach the Inn and cross to its other side.
Passau early on this Sunday morning - all is quiet.
Passau was very still, as would be expected at 7 a.m. on a Sunday morning. Without the magic of the street cafes, the parties on the river boats, the streets with cycle tourists and other tourists, etc. the place could be seen in its regular (rather than dress up) clothes. It was almost more charming this way – now that one could more quietly contemplate the streets and buildings.
We crossed the Inn to Innstadt, and set off up river. There were signs for a whole bunch of Austrian cycle routes, and we were not sure which (if any) should be ours. Dodie had the Bikeline map, which is at a good scale and shows the red route line clearly. However the map is not good enough to give you every turn. You really need the street level route signs as well. We realized in due course that our route was the Innradweg – Austrian route R3. After that, find our way was no harder or easier than normal.
However, R3 is pretty serious about following the Inn. That meant that it did not often lead into and through towns. That is a disadvantage if you want to see something, and maybe find some groceries. If you head to a town on your own, you then get the challenge of finding the route again.
Actually few if any of the towns we passed had obvious grocery stores, and those we did spot were closed, so that simplified life (sort of).
Although the R3 was sticking to the river, that did not usually mean a cruise by the water, Rather it usually meant a cruise on the inland side of the dike on a rough gravel road, or up on a ridge above the river, on a rough gravel track. Gravel slows you down, and I also worry about the computer, getting its delicate parts bounced around all day.
Aside from just normally looking at gravel and low trees we also noticed that the Austrian houses lacked the pizzaz of many we had seen in Germany. Yes, houses in both places have tile roofs, window boxes, lots of flowers generally, and are well maintained. But the German ones had more flowers, were newer and better maintained, we thought. Notably missing in Austria were all the rooftop solar installations we had seen all through our route in Germany.
This is not to say there was nothing zippy in Austria. We soon came to Scharding, a town whose main streets feature pastel coloured buildings from a past age of guilds. Pamphlets, one in English, picture each of the major buildings and give its significance and history. We have seen a few towns that look like this so far, and they sure are nice.
We pushed on through the gravely paths, getting more and more tired. Also tiresome was the weather – with thunder and occasional brief rain showers, forcing us to get out put on and take off put away our rain gear a completely unreasonable number of times.
At the Braunau camping spot, I found a large (very large) tent with tables and chairs, and clearly used as a beer hall though now empty. I scoped out a place to plug in the netbook, and have been sitting here blogging. During this time, three men each with an unknown relation to the campground management have appeared and, I take it, asked me why I am sitting here (in the dark). They don’t seem to have a beef with it, and the last one actually showed me how to turn on the lights.
So I am with power, a chair, and a covered table – my favourite combo! The only thing, at just 10:15 p.m, the 80 km on gravel has me pooped. I have some photos from last night in Passau to pop in (to yesterday) but then will call it quits. Resting up is important, because we expect to reach Salzburg tomorrow, with lots to see.
p.s In Scharding the bakery had Sacher Torte. Researching (by eating) Sacher Torte is a major goal in visiting Vienna. But I didn’t go for it today. Never eat Sacher Torte before noon is my motto.
The Inn starts in Switzerland and passes through Innsbruck and Braunau before joining the Donau at Passau. Our game is to follow it upstream to Braunau and then cut over to Salzburg on the Salzach.
The campground is very miscellaneous, with various shelters, buildings, tables, campfire circles, playgrounds, and stuff scattered around. It's good for us, because it was easy to find a table and power in all the chaos.
