Day 44: Gien to Saint Satur, France: Don't Let the Pigeon Drive the Bike

July 2, 2012

With apologies to Moe Willems we are including the pigeon because we are thinking of Avi and Violet. for the same reason, here are some other of the animals encountered today:

EEYORE

BILLY GOAT GRUFF

DEUX CHEVAUX (TWO HORSES)

ALSO DEUX CHEVAUX:

The day started on an animal theme anyway. We had spread our tent and fly on the campground roadway in the early morning sun, and looked up to the tinkle of bells and the sight of a shepherd leading about 200 sheep and goats our way. They were moving slowly, but we had to scramble to make sure our stuff did not get nibbled. The shepherd had five sheep dogs, but they seemed more interested in our baguette than in keeping the herd in line. In fact, as the shepherd proceeded along the river, the flock shed members who got interested in eating a particular tree, or something. Some stragglers were lame, making me and Dodie wish we had brought our hoof trimming equipment.

Eventually most of the flock passed by. We can only assume the shepherd was taking advantage of some ancient grazing rights.

A shepherd strolls through the campground with 200 sheep and goats

They proceed along the Loire, here with Gien in the background

We left Gien, noting this traffic signal:

It's a subtle difference, to say to the motorist (and the pedestrian) that in any disputed situation the pedestrian should really be given a break, compared to the North American command WALK. It goes into our notebook with another subtle difference of expression:

A house for sale in North America is FOR SALE. Here, it is FOR PURCHASE. It seems less aggressive, doesn't it? We're not trying to sell it to you, but you probably could buy it if you were so inclined.

The day settled down into the quiet succession of paths and villages that we are growing used to.

One new feature was the reappearance in our travels of canal side cycling. There were a couple along the way, making for brief (5 km) straight and peaceful rides

Another part of the canal system. 5km of total tranquility.

On one of the canal stretches, our Dutch friends from the attic sale at Chateauneuf came magically along, on their Bromptons. This gave me a chance to put to them the question raised in the Guestbook by Graham Smith as to the suitability of the Brompton for distance touring. Yes it is, claimed our friends, citing long tours they knew about.

Our Dutch friends, Leo and Ineke, from Chateauneuf magically reappear along the canal

Their machines had six speed rear axles, enough, they claimed. Perhaps more speeds are available on other Brompton models. If so, we would recommend more, since we certainly seem to zip up and down our 24 options all the time. (Admittedly, maybe there aren't many more than six practical choices among the 24). Also, with all the loose gravel we have been encountering, 20" wheels seem like they would be a better choice than 16". On the other hand, no doubt using 16" is< possible.

As we neared Belleville we ran into a heavenly situation with plants along the canal, and we ran into a potential hell, with the third nuclear station we have seen on the Loire.

Strangely, we seem to be covering only about 60 km daily, before declaring ourselves beat and looking for a Camping. Could it be the bikes or the load? No, we decided. We think the number one factor is the heat. 35-38 degrees had been normal for an afternoon high, and it really tires you out. The number two factor is gravel pathways. The rolling resistance and effort needed to not skid out is a lot greater than on pavement, and somehow we are running into a lot of gravel. Part of the reason is that the route planners will seemingly go to any lengths to keep you off the road, no matter that almost all roads here are quiet and/or feel quite safe. Off the road often means off the pavement.

And oh yes, no matter how good their quality, there is a limit to how much you really can power with pastries. Hmmmpph.

So quite early (after a quite late start), and after a struggle to find the poorly marked (but very nice) Camping at St Satur, we not only quit but also went to find a restaurant. Some protein in the form of beef and chicken dishes went a long way to restore our strength, and we bought not only baguette but also eggs and cheese (rarely available) at the Boulanger, to allow for a power breakfast in the morning. Throw some pastries on top of that and we may find ourselves in Nevers tomorrow. Do you think?

Leaving the restaurant we ran into Graham and Jenny, two Aussie teachers currently living in Switzerland. They plan to cycle the Loire a Velo shortly and asked us about our experience. Of course, we had no short answer, but for a long answer gave them the link to this blog. We in turn will watch for their blog, to see how they make out.

Graham and Jenny Worthington at Saint Satur

Today's ride: 64 km (40 miles)
Total: 1,601 km (994 miles)

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