Day 36: Montjean to St. Mathurin, France: Fete du Velo

June 24, 2012

We usually manage to just miss farmers' markets and other events as we travel, but this day we hot the nail on the head. June 24 is the region's Bikeathon (actually Fete du Velo). They close the roads beside the Loire to vehicle traffic for 170 km, and put out first aid, bike repair, and food stations along the way. The public responds by coming out to cycle on the car free roadways, that in any event were mostly car free before anyway.

The advertising brochures stated that 30,000 cyclists were expected to come out. But while we encountered steady streams all day, 30,000 might be quite optimistic. We also found that spread over the large distance, the services provided were quite thin. Even so, it was quite fun being part of a officially blessed activity, rather than our common (especially English) feeling of being a nuisance on the roads.

Here is a taste of La Fete du Velo:

A dedicated electric bike outfit, with a neat van too

La Fete du Velo notwithstanding, the path and the river continued to be super. We can see how the landmarks and villages along this way could become familiar and much beloved. This certainly was the case for Michel, the man we met with the trike yesterday. Michel described for us his favourite places, and one was the "Cafe Lenin". It's a strange place, styling itself a Lenin museum. It was closed when we got there, but no doubt it would have been fun.

The Lenin Cafe, just where Michel said it would be.

Despite its being Sunday, most boulangeries were open. And of course their contents are amazing:

We also noticed that some businesses sport welcome signs for cyclists. It seems that just like the similar program in Ontario, there are no concrete benefits. It does feel good though.

Businesses declare that they are cycle friendly.

Somewhere along the line (ok, for purists it was at Bouchemaine) we missed a sign and headed up the Maine river toward Anger, rather than sticking along the Loire. We realized our error about 6 km later. We were standing staring at the GPS in dismay (normally, it is off - some of us don't trust it.) when a man stopped to offer assistance. He pointed out our options, for either going to Angers and later back to the Loire, for short cutting back to the Loire, for short cutting to Angers, etc. Being from Angers, he made a strong case for us going there. He convinced me, and I was ready to go, using the shortcut across a little bridge. The access to the bridge was semi-impossible, though, and this led to an extensive "conference" as to what to do next. It was a bit of a mobile conference, as we lurched this way and that before having second thoughts. In the end we returned the way we had come and rejoined the Loire.

This man gave us good directions when we found ourselves 6 km off route, up the Maine river. He made a strong pitch for us to continue to see the main part of Angers.

It was the wrong route, but still great.

Access to the recommended bridge. Dodie balked at pushing up it.

Although I have labelled the path and river as just as great as yesterday, somehow my photos are not nearly as zippy. Maybe the scenery did slip a bit (since it is not possible that I would ever just take crappy photos!)

A field of flowers (no doubt for seed) near St. Mathurin

A few of the camping spots shown on our map did not seem to pop up on the ground. But in St Mathurin a little scouting did turn up a camping spot. There was no one at the reception, but we met a lovely Dutch couple - Henk and Nelli, who have cycled all over the world. We were about the only people there.

We also noted a covered pavilion, great, since the weather was threatening with wind and later rain. We stuck our tent under there and greatly enjoyed the shelter for cooking and blogging. We also enjoyed the idea that our fly would not be wet from rain when packing in the morning.

In due course, the camping man came along and collected 10 Euros (4 for a site and 3 per person). However he freaked about the tent under the shelter. Absolutely prohibited! Get it out of there, now! Well ok, we said, but later, as now we are cooking. "I'll be back" he blustered "and if this tent is still there I will be extremely angry!".

We have seen this kind of little bully before, probably in a movie. The Dutch couple were pretty bemused too, though he lit into them too, for moving a plastic table! We had quite a criminal cartel going, us and the Dutch folks.

Our Dutch co conspirators, seated at their stolen table under our unauthorized shelter.

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 1,199 km (745 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	1
Comment on this entry	Comment	0