Day 35: Nantes to MontJean sur Loire, France: A Perfect Day - Grampies on the Go - Again! Summer 2012 - CycleBlaze

June 23, 2012

Day 35: Nantes to MontJean sur Loire, France: A Perfect Day

Back when we first dreamed up this trip, the core idea was to get on the EuroVelo 6 at its start near the Atlantic and to cross Europe with it. We are not so interested in the "far east", so we felt that Vienna would be far enough. Everything else, the spin around southern england, the planned swoop down the Rhine, etc. has been an add on.

So today we started our "main" trip.

1000 km in and we are just starting our real ride
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We were hoping for a mostly car free, mostly flat, mostly rural, cruise along the rivers. We were hoping that supplies and camping would be easily available, and we were hoping that the Eurovelo signage would be good, so that with our Eurovelo maps also on hand, there would be no question about finding the route.

Well, while the rest of the route may be lacking in one respect or other, today we got it all. We really could not ask for more. It has been perfect. (Actually more than perfect, because we also got ideal weather - clear and about 24 degrees at mid day.)

We set out along the Loire
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Our first Eurovelo 6 sign. This one says Itineraire Provisoire, we have no idea why. We downloaded a 48 page document on EuroVelo signage but have yet to try deciphering the rather formal French.
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The Loire
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This section of Eurovelo (EV) 6 is coincident with "La Loire a Velo". There is a lot of official support for this in the region, including bike shelters and attention of municipal campgrounds.
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Our typical pathway today
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About mid day we came upon a fellow pedalling towards us on a recumbent trike. It turned out to be Michel Fleurance. Michel lives nearby and has been up and down La Loire a Velo a lot.He gave us some tips about the best way to follow the route up ahead, and about the best places to camp over the next day or two's range. Best of all, he knew all about Crazyguy, was running Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires (same as us), had an Airzound (like Dodie did last year), Schmidt dynamo (like I should have bought), and Ortlieb trike bag. In short, he ws our kind of guy, and we much enjoyed talking to him.Too much talking to other cyclists can use up time, but just enough is energizing, as you realize you are not alone.

Michel Fleurance
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It's fun!
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We carried on, and can only report the easy path, clear signs, flowers, farms, villages - all things we love:

This is the standard EV sign. This one not only is giving the towns to be found in the direction indicated, but the distance. Too often in Britain you could get confused as to whether a National Cycle Route sign was pointing you the way you wanted to go, or the reverse.
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A grape nursery
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Leeks
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A mystery structure in a hillside. These are not the cave dwellings we expect to see later.
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What a great cycle way!
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Views of villages and churches
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Flowers. It's great to be out here in the sunshine!
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Many trees were covered with mistletoe. I dubbed these French Poodle trees.
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Charolais, white cows. There are lots of cows here of all colours.
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Grapes with a village in the background
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On this road, a lot of citroen "Deux Chevaux" went by. It must have been a club.
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Sandbars in the Loire in front of an island.
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Pretty brown and white cows
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Trailside beauty
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I need a wall like this at home
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Brown cows. We have seen only one sheep, but many cows
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Bridge at l'Evre
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We refuelled at St. Florent. The millefeuilles (right in front) was as you would expect for France: fresh whipped cream, fresh strawberries.
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Bakeries here are so different (so much better) than at home, we still photograph them in amazement.
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Actually, it was not all goodies at St. Florent. Taking care about things being closed on Sunday, we went into a grocery store and stocked up on canned tuna salad and suchlike. Now we can withstand days of closures if needed.

A "bike stop" at St. Florent
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Michel had advised us that La Promenade was a good camping spot, and we agree. Perhaps it was a little costly (and perhaps not - we really don't know at this stage) but the services are complete and super clean. Nearby to our spot someone was celebrating a birthday, and young and old gathered at some picnic tables. The sounds of everyone having a good time made a pleasant background for our early evening.

Easy to spot camping along the way. Full services including wifi - 14 euros. We probably could have got away lots cheaper or free, but ah, those showers!
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Gathering for the fete du velo. In English they call it the "Feast of Anjou bike ride along the banks of the Loire". They expect 30,000 riders?! I hope they also mean it about the "feast".
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Our spot at La Promenade camping
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Here I am writing this.
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BONUS: Cultural Difference or just a Cuckoo Builder?

Here at the campground there are lots of new, super clean, showers toilets, and sinks. Like, really lots. They are arrayed all along an 80 foot building, and a mirror image is being constructed along the other edge of the building. There are three large openings in the building, leading to all the showers and sinks. There are male and female symbols posted, but it is very unclear which facilities are meant for whom. One thing that is pretty clear is urinals. That's for the men (even if they are on the side labelled women!) One weird bit is that while one urinal is screened from another, all the urinals are out in the open in front of one of the major building entries. Is this something "French" or is this an oversight? What's more, there are some sinks in the open and some sinks carefully hidden in a cubicle. So does that mean it's ok to pee in public but not put on your makeup? What a funny place.

Today's ride: 76 km (47 miles)
Total: 1,129 km (701 miles)

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