Day 10: Wallingford to Aldermaston: More river miles on our private boat

May 29, 2012

The crew of our boat returned, we returned, and we all set off to continue our journey down to Reading. While waiting to cast off, we accessed a wifi point set up by the Wallingford town. It did not give free general internet access, but we could read a lot about the town, including its history.

When there is about 1000 years of recorded history, a lot can go on. For example, the bridge over the Thames here has had many incarnations. During one war two spans were replaced as draw bridges for defence. The castle at Wallingford was handed around as a gift by various royalty, but when it was the last to surrender to Cromwell in the civil war, he had it demolished. Henry VIII, anyway, didn't like it - thought it was uncomfortable. Earlier Stephen and Matilda vied back and forth around it, and so forth. Gads, who can dream what has gone on in spots in town now given over to pizza shops!

As we continued down the river, it continued to offer storybook beauty. Though a repeat of yesterday, the fare (12.30 pounds each) was worth every bit.

When we strolled off in Reading, around 1 p.m., we just picked the nearest of several pubs and cafes. The one we chose, the 'Moderation' was (like all the others) a 'public' 'house'. That is, it had tables, couches, food, toilet, just like at home. And the people around were not there to get drunk, but just to eat, drink, rest, and talk.

They opened a gate to the back garden for us, and we had a perfectly secure place for the bikes and a shaded outdoor place for lunch. The menu had Indonesian dishes as well as the regulars so (together with free wifi) it was pretty much heaven.

How about buying me this, Dodie? (we can put it in a mailback)

The bridge at Wallingford (heavily involved in the civil war (Cromwell) and tons of other history)

We easily found a pub (with wifi) in Reading

With a quick check of the GPS and the map, Dodie very quickly put us back on NCN Route 4 to Bath. This fairly closely follows the Kennet and Avon Canal all the way to Bath.

Before we had quite cleared Reading, a fellow cycled up and said 'I saw you at the train station a couple of days ago'. It was Sunni (our guess on how to spell his nickname), who was of Indian heritage but was born in Scotland, ergo, great accent. Sunni said he often saw cycle tourers along this way and would generally say hello and give them any guidance. He knew all about Crazyguy and also Warm Showers. He said he had cycled his Brompton in Morocco last year, and drawn a lot of interest. Sunni stayed with us for a while and chatted as we made our way to the canal. What a nice man!

The Kennet and Avon Canal. We will follow this to Bath.

The canal and its path have a chance of going into our notes as one of the great rides. There is much of the beauty of the upper Thames here, and lots of canal boats. There is also an absence of baby buggies, and of course, cars. Though the path is gravel and at times narrow and/or rough, you can get going and actually cycle here! Cycle, beauty, no cars, that's what we came for!

This pub had a thatch roof. However at 5 pounds for pudding it was too costly for us.

We did run into a few styles which required dismounting and wiggling around, but they were ok. One devilish one, though, was completely impassable to a touring bike. Regular unloaded bikes had to go around it with their back wheel only on the ground and the bike otherwise lifted up. Grrrr.

The builders of this style have never seen a touring bike

All along here we saw abundant opportunities for wild camping - open meadows, lakeside clearings, grass near locks. When evening came, we just grabbed one. So here we sit in our private 20 acre meadow, having eaten our gourmet 'Beluga Lentils' and thin green beans bought from Waitrose yesterday. The 18 pounds we spent there will still do us for one or two more days of yummy stuff (assuming we supplement with Indonesian banquets, of course!).

We can now crawl under our fluffy bags (no rain since we arrived in England!) with warm thoughts of another day to come along paradise canal tomorrow.

For Emma Taylor, guard cows would have helped you in Turkey

Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 232 km (144 miles)

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