August 30, 2022 to September 3, 2022
The Apuseni Mountains
30th
Set of early evening to find a spot to camp outside the city. I thought it would be fun stay in Hoia Forest, the most haunted forest in Europe but it wasn't on my way so I found a quiet spot by a lake up a big hill overlooking the mountains. Probably for the best I didn't stay in the forest.
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31st
Once again I was lead onto an unrideable "path" so had to do a lot of sweaty pushing though thick mud up a big hill. I passed a Sheppard, Petr, who kindly showed me a better trail to the next town and helped me push my bike all the way to the top.
Got a puncture at the top of the hill so I frantically tried to take out the thorn and repair it before the thunderstorm hit. Made it down to the town in time to find shelter in a church porch to wait out the rain.
The road passed though a gorge that ran for miles, was fun speeding though with the two cliff faces beside me. The gorge bought me out into a small town just before the hills. The constant 12% gradient was tough, especially as I carried up 6L of water, I felt a little jealous of the 2 motorbikers speeding effortlessly past me. The views at the top were worth the push though, and the extra water for the "shower" just about made up for the extra weight.
I spoke to the bikers at the top who also planned to camp, we pitched up together and watched the sunset over the mountains. Bogdan, Claude and Julia were on a 10 day trip but were covering distances in a day that I would do in a week. We spoke into the night over a fire as the temperatures dropped and I learnt some more about Romania.
1st
The next morning the mist settled below the mountains and we were joined by a new friend who the bikers met at the same spot last year!
Was told there was a waterfall nearby so we all headed down the track to explore (and of course I made use of the extra hands for the photo opportunity).
Had to say goodbye to the others unfortunately as they couldn’t continue on the track with the motorbikes along the track but with a bit of pushing I could and enjoyed the incredible scenery with not a car in sight.
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The weather worsened and I continued down the mountains towards Alba Iulia in the rain. I took a scary bridge across a river, hoping on each step that the weight of me and my bike wouldnt break the planks.
Was soaked when I arrived in the city but found a restaurant where I could devour a paella for two and figure out where I am going to sleep. I was close to going around and knocking on doors when I got a message from Claude saying they are staying in the city and have rented an appartment which I can crash in. This was a massive relief and I was so happy to see them all again.
2nd
Today was not so good, after a brief wander around the city in the rain and some history lessons from Bogdan, I accepted the rain isn't going to clear, said farewell and rode on, knowing I had a place to stay tonight though warmshowers.
Was very stressful on the main roads in the pouring rain, I couldn't find another route either so accepted today was not going to be fun. Everything got soaked from the cars speeding though puddles next to me and this was when I realised my cheap rain jacket is not so waterproof anymore. I took my time in a shop looking at the rain bouncing off the road, this only made carrying on even harder. Rode on some more next to a train track until I realised I'm being stupid for not just catching a train. I got a ticket for 6Lei (£1) and watched as the kilometers effortlessly passed by. The conductor tried to charge me loads extra for my bike so I had to leave at the next stop when I refused. I got off in some deserted station and figured out a route whilst a sad wet stray dog finished the last of my pretzels.
Was happy I got off when I did as I was now off the main road and though some lovely country hills. It reminded me a lot of Northumberland, especially in the mist and rain, which had died down a lot.
Was surprised when my host, Daniel drove out and escourted me the last 10 minutes. He took me to this restaurant and gave me this delicious bean soup and walked away. He quickly showed me everything and rushed off again, I didn't get to speak to him at all. Even though I never really got to find out anything about him I was very grateful to be out of the rain.
3rd
Daniel insisted I stay an extra day so I did. Never saw him again though the rest of the day so wondered why he insisted so strongly as there was absolutely nothing to do in the town. Spent a lot of time trying to make some plans and worrying about the impending winter. I found myself going on circles with this, my brain function seemed to just not be there today.
4th
Wasnt far to Sibu, a historic city at the base of the Fagaras mountians.
I could see the mountians in the distance getting closer as I rode on and knew I was in for a big day tomorrow.
Rode across a track through a field and could see a heard of sheep in the distance, weary of sheep dogs I started to speed up, I could see a faint figure running out of the heard towards me. The barking soon got louder and alerted other dogs and before I knew it I had 3 huge shepard dogs gnashing at my ankles. Shouting at them didn’t help and I didn’t feel like trying the advice someone gave me to get off the bike and welcome them with open arms. I sped on up the hill to the road where they coninued to chase me until I could finally outrun them, what a rush!
Found a field at the base of the mountains to camp with the shepard's permission and watched the sky turn a deep red as the sun dipped below the horizon.
Today's ride: 175 km (109 miles)
Total: 9,475 km (5,884 miles)
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