Apricot Valley, Deadly tunnels and The Fann mountains

May 25, 2023 to June 7, 2023

Cycling though the Fergana valley and a short Hiking adventure

We had a warm welcome into Tajikistan by a local after crossing the border and soon discovered why aprictos are so cheap in this region, they literally grow everywhere and we were foolish for buying any. During the soviet rule of Central Asia, fruit trees were planted everywhere on the side of the road to stop people going hungry. We started to eat from one tree and a local soon came over, not to tell us off but to suggest a tree with sweeter apricots and to urge us to fill our bags with as many as we can.

Easily eating two kilograms each before mid day, we thought we hit paradise by this crystal clear lake before being surrounded by kids staring at everything we do. I eventually succumbed and joined in with them which was pretty fun, but seb was less entertained....

In Qatagan we encountered some amazing hospitality for the fist day in the country, looking for water in a shop we were given ice cream, two loaves of bread and an invitation to eat and stay in a teahouse nearby. Here we were treated like royalty, being fed plov, shashlik and salad in our private dining room. What a way to end a long day and the first day in Tajiksitan.

Leaving the Fergana valley after a final gorge on the endless roadside apricot trees, we were faced with a 5km tunnel to complete the pass. Failing to find anyone to hitchike with we were forced to brave the unlit, unventilated tunnel, avoiding pot holes and near overtakes from cars and trucks. Shouting with joy after making it out, feeling sick from the exhaust fumes but incredibly relieved, we were then told there was a small emergency tunnel we could have taken instead.. Moreover, this was the supposedly good Chinese built tunnel and not the much worse Iranian built tunnel towards Dushanbe our minds were immediately made up about skipping this one (it was much worse).

On the beautiful descent down to small town of Ayni we were invited for food with some men who spoke very good English. As a gift, they left us with a bag of krut (salty sour kefir balls) which we reluctantly accepted and continued the rest of the way to the town. We were surrounded by kids watching everything we do and giggling as we tried to buy food in the shop. Looking for a spot to camp outside of town a man called Savridin approached us and immediately offered for us to stay on his topchan with the most incredible view. He also gave us kefir, bread and tea, and we met his many children who we were thankful we could offload our gifted krut onto.

Woke up the next morning to a man sat outside my tent on a futon ordering his wife around to dig holes whilst he drank tea.

We continued the valley towards Panjakent on a detour for a hike in the Fann Mountains. Whilst I was busy snapping photos of cows during an incredible sunset on the tough climb (push) up to Artuch base camp, Seb was busy meeting this kind man who invited us into his house to stay for the night. In true Tajik fashion Obbo was incredibly direct and a little forceful, ordering us to take a shower and eat with them, but who were we to argue? Was amazing meeting his family including his cute baby granddaughter Mariam and his grandson. He gave us loads of advice for the hike ahead over endless cups of tea and was truly interested in our journey.

Staying the night with Obbo and his family

After being fed hot milk and bread with fresh butter for breakast, we puished our bikes up the 20% rock filled track to base camp and then waited out a storm in the cosy building, loosing terribly at chess to Sebastien and starting to eat our supply of food. Right before we finally set off on the hike we bumped into Zora and Phillip whom I'd met with Ilaria in Uzbezistan, they had left their bicycles for a school and had started traveling in a Lada Niva with some friends.

It was awesome hiking here on this four day adventure. The highest point we've reached yet at 3800m on the Allauddin pass, experiencing my first taste of altitude with a headache. Worth it for the most incredible campsite on the other side at Allauddin lake with an ice cold swimming spot to jump in in the morning. A group guide was leaving back to base camp so gave us a huge bag of vegetables and fruits to add to our already heavy bags of fresh food.

Avoiding deep snow across the Luadan pass we made it to the scenic valley below with twisting trees and more crystal clear lakes. Was happy my bag was lighter as we had been eating our huge bag of tomatoes and now with just bread and soy sauce left to power us back to base camp by the next morning.

On the way back to the main road, we stopped by Obbo's place and fed bowl after bowl of kefir until we had to refuse it, waved goodbye and tried to hitchhike on the main road past the Iranian tunnel. We waited a long time with a big bag of sour cherries, gave up and started cycling when we realised we just ate a kilogram. Luckily not far down the road we flagged down a white van and could jump in the back for a very sweaty ride past the tunnel, stopping on the way when we saw Oren cycling the other way out the dusty back window. We definitely agreed the Iranian "bad" tunnel was indeed far worse than the horrible Chinese tunnel that we previously crossed. It would be suicide to cycle though the unlit, unventilated tunnel, if not by hitting one of the many pot holes and getting hit by a car then from the thick fumes that polluted the small space and made it impossible to see more than 10 meters ahead. The Van ended up driving us all the way to Dushanbe, although it would have been an awesome downhill after the mountain pass, there were many tunnels remaining ahead and we didn't fancy any more after the previous experience.

We reached Dushanbe and checked into the Green House Hostel, the place where every bike tourer goes, the courtyard was filled with 10 touring bikes and plenty of touring motorbikes too. It was great to meet so many travellers, mostly (including us and Nathan) who will soon be heading out to start the famous Pamir Highway. We rested a few days here, getting things ready for the adventure ahead, including collecting a perol stove and many other things from the incredibly useful give and take cabinet from people finishing the route.

Next post, Into the Pamirs...

Today's ride: 400 km (248 miles)
Total: 3,450 km (2,142 miles)

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