A Kyrgyz Music Festival, Thunderstorms and a lot of Hitch-biking

July 23, 2023 to August 23, 2023

Kolfest to Karakol and Almaty

A fair few hours down the road Seb realises that he forgot his sleeping pad when we were dropped off by Melis, there wasn’t much other option but to go back and get it. I volunteered to look after the bikes whilst eating an uncomfortable amount of Kuurdak (Mutton and potatoes) in a roadside restaurant and watching a horrible Kyrgyz comedy movie shown on the TV. Returning, mattress in hand after hitchiking back, I caught up Seb with the movies thickening plot over his meal and we cycled a few kilometres to find a quiet spot on the edge of town in a field for the night. It started well and were winding down, trying to digest the belly full of mutton, there were signs of a storm in the distance but we didn’t think too much of it for some reason. We just sat there gawming at the lightning strikes in the distance, trying to take photos, not realising that the storm was coming directly this way. Before we knew it the tent was hit by heavy rain and winds. Deafening lightning strikes were super close, causing adrenaline to rush through my body (it's not the safest thing to be in a metal cage in the middle of an open field in a storm). Seb told me about a technique where you squat on your toes on your sleeping pad to avoid the current going through your heart, this felt pretty silly though and in a panic we both ran out into the storm across the road where we found a small farm. The building was closed with only a small opening in the window, we debated breaking in but instead we sat under the milking shed in the heavy rain and waited out the storm, safe but not comfortable at all.

The nights shelter, sebs squatting technique and the approaching storm

We stopped on the way at Ulok-kul for an overnight hike, something which, in hindsight, could have easily been completed in a few hours on the bike. We were rewarded by another thunderstorm at the top, hiding in a yurt drinking milk tea whilst a group of Israelis were out on horses with a guide who said that it was a good time to leave (more reasons we dont like guides). The lake was one of the most beautiful yet and it was a joy to camp and cook with nobody around but the curious cows who would crowd our tent in the morning.

Kol-Fest

Re-joined Nathan, Masha and Adam at Kol-fest, a 3 day-festival showcasing local and international music groups, art programs and workshops, all set beside the beautiful Issyk-kul. We met a great group from all over the world that we got to know and watch the diverse range of performances with. Camping on the beach, Seb and I betted pretty accurately on which tents will hold up during an inevitable storm.

Sebo and Lin (top), Adam and Masha (bottom middle)

Skazka Canyon

After the festival we joined some friends from the festival to visit Skazka "Fairytale" canyon. Uma and Aziza surprising bought along a kettle and lots of food so it became a mission to make a fire for tea and instant mash potatoes. Unsurprisingly at this point it started to rain and the wind picked up as the sky turned dark with storm clouds. We all took shelter under Uma's scarf until the water was boiled and the storm passed. What we were left with was an incredible stormy sky, parted with a rainbow heading into the canyon (and lots of tea).

A small side trip to Bishkek with our new friend Pavel from Russia who drove us most the way. Then meeting again with more people from the festival, feasting on Georgian food before coming back once again to Issyk-kul. This time we headed to the northern side of the lake and cycled to Cholpon Ata where we then found a lift to Karakol with a friendly truck driver.

Pavel and some drunk guys giving us a lift to Bishkek

Karakol

We arrived at the beginning of the Silk road mountain race, an absolutely crazy endurance race through the most remote mountainous regions of the country, cycling 2000km and 30,000m elevation gain within a 2week cut off period. We got to meet some of the crazy people participating and appreciate the exhausting journey they are about to partake in, it made our trip sound like child's play.

For us though it was straight out into the mountains to hike the Ala-Kul trek for 3 days. My hiking shoes were totally ruined so I walked most of the way in some cheap neoprene water shoes I had found in Bishkek, they barely survived but were the most comfortable things to hike in and still felt more equipped by local porters running down the steep scree in adibos sliders.

hot springs and the best footwear for hiking

Nabil, Seb and Finn. Our hitchikees at the hot spring spa. Two Ashlan-Fu

Inspirational Peanut butter jars from questionable characters

Skipping sections became habit now as we were short on time before our flight and people were so friendly that it was too easy to hitchhike. Leaving Karakol, Almaz and his family picked us up in his pickup truck and drove us to his house to stay for the night after realising a storm was on its way. On the journey we all sung our favourite Kyrgyz pop song together that we had heard countless times on the radio. Was very grateful to have a dry room to stay in during the storm and a hot dinner cooked by his family. I was also impressed with how Almaz built his whole farm by himself, mostly by hand with little machinery, he recently spent 2 weeks digging a giant cellar to store potatoes, very different to how things would be done in the west and he is so much tougher because of it.

I enjoyed the ride to the border, passing through remote villages on dirt tracks with friendly curious locals very happy to see us.

Kazakhstan

Crossing the border into Kazakhstan we forgot that this was the wealthy country in the region and were presented by perfect asphalt Infront of us (but also a strong headwind of course). We rode most the day against the wind and caught a lift with a man called Manas for the final section to Charyn canyon and enjoyed a gorgeous sunset riding finally with a tailwind until finding a camping spot in an old horse stable. We raced through the beautiful canyon in the morning and met Nabil for a classic cyclists lunch of bread and soy sauce on the floor outside the visitor centre cafe, using all the facilities and not buying anything.

Again there was a strong headwind most of the way to Almaty so it was a relief to make it and finish the last ride in Central Asia! Almaty was an awesome city, I met some fun people in a backpackers hostel there, enjoyed wandering the cities soviet buildings and the social nightlife scene.

Endless power lines and an abandoned building to camp in on the road to Almaty

A roof and walls?? A perfect place to stay

Bikes packed and onto a sleepless night-bus to Shymkent for a flight and a huge culture shock in New Delhi!

Sleeping behind a hostel after arriving late to avoid paying, napping on the "lake"side and camping next to the airport

Today's ride: 580 km (360 miles)
Total: 1,190 km (739 miles)

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