June 6, 2023
To Lake Koocanusa
Today we'll ride further out into the woods where services are sparse. We carry breakfast and lunch provisions but need a dinner plan for the next couple days. Tonight there's a restaurant at the Koocanusa Resort but tomorrow we'll be at a primitive forest service campground.
The freeze-dried meals at the Huckleberry Patch store two days ago looked pretty good. I regret not picking something up there. While I peck away at the journal, Barry gallantly makes a run to the market and returns with provisions for the night when we’ll be on our own, notably Rice-a-Roni and tuna. Strong choice.
The first two miles riding west on Montana 37 are beautiful, on a wide bike path with wildflowers and horses alongside us. When the path ends, we move to a wide smooth shoulder and we’re alone again.
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I'm carrying a bunch of cold weather clothes that were great to have in Glacier and are now just baggage. It's much too warm for that stuff.
We swing by the Rexford Post Office 7 miles down the road to mail the ballast home. There I meet Andy, who is rocking out to "Separate Ways" by Foreigner. I comment on how well that music holds up. Randy lights up and tells me he saw them play in Missoula three years ago. He remembers Steve Perry walking up to the mic and saying "For all of you out there under 35, you're about to hear what real music sounds like." That song will be in my head all day.
A few miles past Rexford we catch our first peek at Lake Koocanusa, or KooCanUSA. Formed when the Kootenai River was dammed up, the lake extends 93 miles from Canada to the USA. We'll be on the Koocanusa Scenic Byway all day. Gorgeous. A little ways on there's a glimpse of a long, elegant bridge.
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At mile 13 we arrive at the Koocanusa Bridge - the longest bridge in Montana at 215 feet. In 1972 it was named the most beautiful long-span bridge in the world. Can’t disagree with that. We ride out on the empty bridge to regard the lake.
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There are so few cars on the road that we can cruise down the descents in the middle of the lane, well away from the rumble strip. Tall rock walls start to appear on the other side of the road, making a little shade, so we take break for lunch. A cooling breeze whistles down the canyon and it's very quiet. Just one truck comes by during the 15 minutes while we're sitting here.
Further on there's a family of mountain goats scrambling up the cliff. They are too fast for me; I have no shot by the time I get the camera going but we can hear their hooves clattering on the rocks.
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The hills are endless, up and down, one after another. The recumbent demands all the attention of my glutes and they are screaming at me. Calculating in my head how long it before we get a rest I think it’s three more days. Oof. The beautiful scene is a great distraction but the sign for the end of our ride is a big relief.
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The Koocanusa Resort has everything I hope for in a campground - indoor plumbing, a strong hot shower, restaurant, bar, store, WiFi, and a secluded setting in the trees by the lake. Bonus, the light breeze is enough to keep the mosquitos away.
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Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 230 miles (370 km)
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1 year ago