Hell's Canyon

June 24, 2023

Smoke on the water

While scoping out campgrounds for the trip I read about Chief Timothy Park on the Snake River near Clarkston. The write up says it's known as the gateway to Hells Canyon Recreation Area, the deepest river gorge in North America. Whaat? We know nothing about Hells Canyon, sounds worth a visit.

After reading reviews about the spiders in Chief Timothy Park we decided to pass on it and stay in Clarkston, but went ahead and booked a jet boat tour up the canyon. It'll be a treat to have an adventure that doesn't involve a long ride.

The tour with Snake River Adventures starts from Hell's Gate State Park, just 5 miles from our motel via bike path. The trail will take us over the river into Lewiston, making it our fourth time crossing into Idaho this trip.

Our first three crossings into Idaho - at Clark Fork, Post Falls and Moscow, all took us to beautiful places. Feeling good about this one.

Continuing down the path in Lewiston ID on the west side of the Snake

At the marina in Hells Gate State Park we board the jet boat and get a preview of the tour from our captain, Erik. A veteran guide for all kinds of expeditions in Hells Canyon, he'll take us 50 miles upriver, entering the northern end of Hells Canyon National Recreation Area at the three corners where Washington, Oregon and Idaho meet. His 15-year old daughter Madison is learning the ropes as the deckhand.

Halfway to Hells Canyon we pass an Osprey nest. I missed that shot but the basalt cliffs here are impressive

Wildfires are common here this time of year. We'll see how far this small fire gets on the way back down.

Cliffs tower above white sandy beaches and vacation homes

We reach the three corners of Washington, Oregon and Idaho 33 miles upriver. From here, Hells Canyon National Recreation Area extends south at least 50 miles to Oxbow Dam, going through the majestic Seven Devils Mountains that rise 8,000 feet above the river. We won't get that far today but the scene here is enthralling.

Garden Creek Ranch near the three corners of Oregon, Washington and Idaho. We'll come back here on the return trip for a longer visit.

Lunch spot a little further up the river at Cache Creek Ranch

Madison, our deckhand, keeps the headcount to be sure we all get back on the boat. It's sweet to watch her learning the ropes from her dad.

Erik keeps an interesting commentary going on the wildlife, history and geology of the area. Gold was discovered here in 1869. While passing a lot of dark shiny rocks he talks about rock varnish - manganese oxide that develops when manganese leeches out to the surface of the basalt and oxidizes. We don't do a lot of guided tours. It's great to hear some of what he's learned from living here all his life. Barry has a lot of respect for his boat handling skills too.

These Bighorns are practically posing for us. Such graceful creatures.

Another boat in the Snake River Adventures fleet

The Seven Devils Mountains loom further upriver, making a dramatic skyline with the clouds

Around the 50 mile mark we turn around and start back down, stopping to hang out for awhile at the Garden Creek Ranch near the Three Corners. There's an orchard here where you can pick your own cherries. I'm content to regard the scene for awhile from the sandy beach.

We have been cruising around 30 mph most of the way. Going back downriver the pace picks up to 40 mph. It's still a pretty smooth ride.

Closer to the end we smell smoke as the boat approaches the wildfire we passed going upriver and see that the fire has spread into the hills. Around this time a lightning storm blows up with a brief hard rain. The scene brings the old Marshall Tucker Band song to mind. It'll be in my head the rest of the day.

Fire on the mountain, lightning in the air
Gold in them hills and she's waitin for me there

It's still raining when we get back to the marina. The Lewis & Clark Discovery center is nearby so we dash over and spend some time watching the film and reading about the Corps of Discovery's hardships in Idaho. Their survival was seriously in doubt on the long trek west through the Bitterroot Mountains in the snow, near starvation before the Shoshone people befriended them. The museum a great introduction to our start tomorrow on the Lewis & Clark Trail. I'm glad we're starting west of the mountains on the trail.

By the time the museum closes the rain has stopped so we head back up towards Lewiston, where the Corps of Discovery passed through at the confluence of the Clearwater and Snake Rivers.

Looking north from the bridge, towards the confluence of the Snake and the Clearwater, with Clarkston on the west and Lewiston to the east.

Back in Clarkston, the sun is shining again

Last nights dinner at Roosters Waterfront Restaurant was not so great so tonight we grab some hot food from the deli at Albertson's and chill out for the evening. Clarkston has been a good break for a couple nights. We'll be fresh in the morning for the climb out of the Snake River valley.

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Today's ride: 10 miles (16 km)
Total: 888 miles (1,429 km)

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