Twenty-one: Tremurden to near Hage

July 1, 2013

The day began well. The serene wild campsite looking out over the sea inlet which I've since seen is called "Dollard". The water was flat the evening before; this morning it was rolling with the tidal serge. I awoke at my usual five and could hear the seals which were a little bit along the beach and it was just good to lay in the tent listening to them and birdsong.

I was on the road not long after seven, a long straight concrete path where the sheep just remained laying at the side as I rode by. Then from the sheep pasture along the bank of the sea defence, the road branched out in a line between fields of wheat. There was nobody on the road except myself.

Passing over a cattle-grind and suddenly there's sheep on the road.

I reached the border town, Bad Neuwenchans, at half eight, shopped and carried on. I did ask at the supermarket was there Wi-Fi because I'm fed-up of the additional cost of five Euros a day spent in cafes. No luck as there wasn't. Then just over the border I asked at a Texico petrol-station. There was free Wi-Fi but there was a fiddly landing-page, plus it was in German; so, I failed to get logged on. It was only the beginning of a long frustrating day in a new country.

The petrol station was at the side of the Autobaun, so I'd to ride back into Hollond and with the help of a householder out collecting mail from the post box, navigate the right path for cyclists into Germany.

First impressions; more of the same flat polder with cycle-signs at every junction; some of the way along narrow especially built for cycling paved trails.

I wanted to get to Emden, the city across from my campsite. But, I wasn't sure there was a ferry over the Em, so headed for Leer where there was bridge over the river. In Leer, I got the feeling things were going downhill. A big enough town I would've thought I could do some journal updating. It wasn't to be though.

In a bakery I struggled to make myself understood. The sounds are so different to me. I said "Wi-Fi", but, it sounded like a totally new concept to the girl behind the counter. Finally when she kind of knew what Is on about, there wasn't. Nor was there Wi-Fi at the other bakery I tried. The tourist office sent me to a café by a cinema called "Hollywood" which the woman assured me had Wi-Fi. When I got there, I found they had. The waitress asked me for my passport and took it away with her. About five minutes later, she returned with my coffee, passport and an A4 sheet of paper containing guest username and password. I was finally getting somewhere. But, the ante virus protection was being too protective, with a warning page which informed me "This is an insecure network" or something, "we don't advice you to continue". I tried four or five times and couldn't continue, couldn't get online. So, I decided to get going as I'd wasted enough time.

Now on the east side of the river Em, I followed signs for places in the direction of Emden, following a cycle-path alongside a busy road for the most part, a dreary afternoon of it after the fabulous riding in Holland. Arriving in Emden's central square where cafes had large outdoor staging full of people enjoying a drink in the sun, I wasn't enjoying myself though when I took the computer out and tried again and had no luck. Then on the way out of the city Is passing a McDonalds, which are find for coffee and are known for free Wi-Fi. I was convinced Is getting somewhere and even took the cable and charger in too. But then when I took my coffee and found a seat beside a power-point, I discovered yet another problem. Although I'd a socket-adoptor of the right dementions; pins the right size and space apart, there was however a safety flap necessitating the right plug with a pin to slot in and open the slap. So now also I couldn't charge batteries. And the network in use was Telekom which required either a landline or Mobil number, being a telephone company I suppose they've a fixation with telephone numbers. I have neither a landline nor do I remember my Mobil number as I don't use it so frequently, so it was yet one more hoop which I couldn't jump through.

I ended the day riding towards a green patch on the map, indicating forest and free camping. I'd made up my mind at that point to reach Hamburg the day after next, therein stay at a hostel were there'd surely be Wi-Fi. It was eight o'clock when I came to the turn-off along a single-track toward the forest, a long day. I was feeling tired; mentally tired more than physically.

Expenditure: 21 Euros 76 Supermarket in last town in Holland: 13 Euros 50.

Coffee in Leer: 1 Euro 70.

Coffee in café with Wi-Fi: 2 Euros 20.

Coffee in Mc Donnals: Emden: 2 Euros 20.

Lydil shop, not far before I camped: 2 Euros 16.

Today's ride: 114 km (71 miles)
Total: 1,661 km (1,031 miles)

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