July 24, 2013
Stocking up: Reykjahild to Husavik; then Gudafoss
Thick fog this morning filled me with forebodings for what if I get the same fog when I'm inland, where, the track may not be too distinct and I'll be relying on seeing mountains ahead in order to navigate; and meanwhile, I won't be going anywhere with visibility low. In a short time though, for the time, I could put such worries aside, as it cleared in an instant around ten o'clock, to yet another cloudless warm day, so I could get moving.
Once I'd the tent taken down and everything packed in the panniers on the bike, I took a short-cut, riding sideways down two one in one grass slopes which separate the stepped-terrace-hillside for tents on this campsite, to the washing up and service building to fill my water bottle. I could've went along the terrace and down the track, but it's a long way as it's a large campsite.
Having come from Husavik on Sunday I was well aware of the lengthy rise up from Lake Myvatn and overpass, then descent towards the coast. The wind this time picked up from the north west, blowing in more grey fog when Is high on the plateau, turning warm sunshine to cold and damp. And, there were all the little short steep heights which once crested, I could just see as far in the fog, the road dip down and rise up again to the next height.
The fog was only high up and when down approaching the coast, Is back in sunshine but still the persistent headwind and yet another long rise over a hill. And Is back on a busy road; busy now during the Summer holidays with Icelandic campervans passing in quick succession. I felt done out when I reached Husavik at three. My first stop was the Oilis petrol station on the way into town which stock household alcohol, as I'd need more for my stove. I paid for a coffee too and helped myself at the thermos, refills being free, I'd three cups of strong Icelandic coffee sat at a window seat looking out upon the forecourt.
Then the supermarket was next door to the petrol station. I put all the usual things for a long stay away from civilization in the basket; crisp-bread, sardines, et cetera. I saw packets of a fine yellow grain which looked like polenta in the shelf next the rice. I asked the woman with the trolley what it was and she told me it was for batter for fish. It looked just like polenta, which was my favourite many days without a town or village food when Is in Argentina. The woman then pointed out couscous, which is as good and also like polenta, only requires hot water, so saving on fuel.
It's amazing how well the Dawes carries all the weight. Every spare cavity and space in the panniers were packed with food, yet the bike felt in no way sluggish. Though I did have a tailwind on the ride back inland. The wind was pointed out by a cyclist I met who was struggling. I covered the fifty kilometres in little over three hours, arriving at the waterfalls Godafoss at nine o'clock, which, was a good time as most of the other tourists had gone. Just a few people remained, including a German cyclist who was having a glass of beer in Fossholl guesthouse waiting for the sun to go down, so he could take some pictures, so he said.
Today's ride: 99 km (61 miles)
Total: 3,087 km (1,917 miles)
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