Escaping Monotomy: Mora to beyond Farlun

August 29, 2013

I don't have a Hosteling International membership, so the hostel cost two-hundred and forty-five kroners, plus fifty for the hire of bed sheets, about twenty-five sterling. Breakfast is included, an all you can eat buffet of ham, salami, cheese, salad, cereal, culture milk, and of course breads, coffee and tea. And there's free Wi-Fi, so the price is reasonable for a couple of nights rest, wash and to do laundry, bike-maintenance and update the journal.

I asked the receptionist the best road south. She advised me to cycle to the west of Lake Siljan, a quiet country road and also the way the green cycle route signs lead. But I didn't heed the advice, getting on the road at nine, I continued on route 70, the road I'd been on since crossing the border and the most direct way south east as I wanted to get as far as possible today. But I discovered there was a lot more traffic on this road leaving Mora; a divided highway like a motorway. It was a motorway the first six or seven kilometres, just as well there was a ample shoulder.

The weather was holding up. It wasn't raining yet as a murky dark sky closed in. And, once the road reverted back to single carriageway, I was on a shoulder reduced to less than a metre wide, closer to the passing trucks, though they slowed and moved out to the middle when passing. The road ahead rolled up and down through a corridor of pine forest, nothing interesting to distract my attention with only an odd sighting of the lake on the right. I was beginning to wish I'd followed the advice and cycled on the quieter western side of the lake.

I was looking forward to reaching the next town Rattvik, thirty-nine kilometres south. And was relieved when I turned off to the centre at about half eleven. I first stopped at the ICA supermarket to stock-up on food for the day, then cycled along the pedestrian street of small local shops until I came to a café. An attractive wooden house with lettering on the windows and chalkboard by the blue stained glass door. When I entered through the door Is met by mellow colours. Wooden floor and tongue and grooved boarded walls. The multi colours of the ice-creams in the display-counter, and the pastries and buns in another display.

I paid for a coffee and went over and filled a cup and coloured it with milk, then took a seat. There were two other customers, two women much the age of myself chatting sing-song Swedish, every phrase ending with a sustained emphasises. Though what was most striking was the furniture, well made and aesthetically pleasing, and also, all the lanterns and artefact on shelves.

I had two refills of coffee before leaving. On the way out of town I stopped by a green which had a maypole and there was also an old long boat in a shelter, like the boats used by the Vikings. The interpretation board called these Church-boats as they were used to row to church on Sundays as well as being an important form of communication between communities around Lake Siljan before the arrival of modern transport.

I lunched at a rest-place not far ahead, then the way onwards again rolled up and down through a corridor of trees and it rained, a brief shower when I took shelter in a bus-shelter. When the rain eased, the road then by-passed Farlun, which was extra busy and Is glad to turn onto a quieter road beyond the city; by now it was after six and I looked for a place to camp. There was a network of lanes into the forest which didn't seem to be much used, nonetheless, I found there were lots of little branches off to free-time houses, and there wasn't any level grassy areas to the side to put a tent, it was all pretty rocky. I persisted. I'd ridden two kilometre off the road on a stoney grass in the middle track when I came to a little clearing, far enough from any house.

Where I stopped for lunch as the rain threatened. If it had of turned out a wet afternoon, I would not of hesitated to roll-out my mat and sleeping-bag for the night.

I'd boiled eggs with the bread and Swedish chocolate afterwards.

N Lindberg? Could be interesting. Anything to get off this road.

Today's ride: 97 km (60 miles)
Total: 5,229 km (3,247 miles)

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