July 7, 2019
Day Twenty-eight: Atkinson, Nebraska to Neligh, Nebraska
It was raining when I woke up early, so I went back to sleep. I finally got up, dressed, and went to the motel's "continental breakfast", which was among the lamest I've seen. There was "peach" flavored instant oatmeal which was so terrible that I ate one bite and threw the rest away. I didn't see another guest, or an employee of the motel, all morning.
Finally, after 9:00, I rode out and stopped after a few hundred feet and went into the gas station. There was a touring bike parked outside, with multiple lights flashing, and a tall, tall flag mounted on the back.
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The cyclist was a guy on the ninth day of his trip from Wisconsin to Seattle. A local man was in the middle of what sounded like a long, dull conversation with the cyclist about the history of the area. If I was the other cyclist, there's no way I'd be squandering my tailwind listening to this guy. Even with my headwind, I'd rather be riding, so I bought some peanut M&Ms, wished the cyclist luck, and left.
US-20 was busy now, even on a Sunday morning. Scenery was uninspiring. At this point, US-20 was just a way for me to get across Nebraska; there were few if any other paved options.
I stopped in Emmett, population 48, where nothing was stirring.
Later I arrived in O'Neill, "Nebraska's Irish Capital", which seemed larger than its listed population of 3,705.
I stopped at what I believe was the last "Pump & Pantry" I saw on this trip, used the restroom, and got a free Nebraska road map. The store was out of sunblock, so I had to make another stop at a Dollar General as I left town, where I purchased the expensive Nutragena SPF 55 stuff I like. The lady working at the store asked me how long I'd been traveling, and told me that "All I do is work, eat, and sleep."
It was hotter, the headwind was stronger, and the traffic was heavier.
I finally took a photo of one of the "Jesus, I Trust In You" billboards I've seen a few times recently. I'm not sure what specific message this is trying to impart. There's not even a phone number or website address where I can obtain more information about this "Jesus" person. I suppose it will remain a mystery.
Inman was a near-ghost-town with a few interesting old buildings.
Somewhere around this time, US-20 and US-275 split, and I continued on US-275. Traffic was a little lighter now.
I stopped in a convenience store in Ewing for some snacks and a visit to the restroom.
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Down the road, in Clearwater, I stopped at another convenience store. Two men were sitting in a booth there, reading the Sunday paper. One of them asked all the Dumb Questions about bike touring ("I guess you ride mostly on the interstates, then?", "I guess you'll ride back to Oregon when you're done?", etc.). He left me with this advice: "You oughta try one of them e-bikes. Might be a little easier." His more with-it friend rolled his eyes as his companion said this. I just smirked.
I arrived in Neligh, population 1,599, where the sign advised me to "Enjoy and Experience it all!"
I didn't feel like experiencing much of Neligh except food and a soft bed, so I obtained a satisfyingly cheap motel room which was literally 10 feet from a Subway.
After cleaning up, I walked to the Subway to find that it was empty except for its three young employees. I ordered one of the little pizzas, and as I sat down to eat it, the three workers took their dinner break and sat down at a table next to me. They were all bright - the 22-year-old manager and the two high school girls who worked for him - and I enjoyed talking to them.
After dinner I walked the few steps back to my room, watched a few minutes of the TV weather forecast, and, as usual, went to bed before dark.
Today's ride: 60 miles (97 km)
Total: 2,249 miles (3,619 km)
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