Day 3 - Kelheim to Regensburg - Off on an Impulse 2018

April 29, 2018

Day 3 - Kelheim to Regensburg

Breakfast in Cafe am Donautor was every bit as good as we remembered. We are served an elegant array of fruit, cheese, cold cuts, different kinds of bread and more, all in abundance. And not a single picture!

There is still a chill in the air but the sun is strong as we leave Kelheim. The bridge over the Altmühl which flows into the Danube at Kelheim is our first photo subject - it's just for cyclists and pedestrians and provides plenty of opportunities for us to get off our bikes before we have even gotten started.

We are now on the Danube Bike Path - and not too enthusiastic. The path is on the levee next to the river, it is straight, has a dirt and gravel surface and there's not a whole lot to see. We are wondering how long this is going to go on, and if the following days on the Danube before we reach Passau are going to be the same. We've ridden this part of the Danube Bike Path before, but we honestly can't remember what it's like. That was years ago, and being younger we probably didn't mind the rough surface. How one's perspective can change over the years!

Here's that boring path, but it's pretty nice anyway. Janos says so.

A few curves and some bluffs improve the view.

The boring path does not go on forever. Actually, we had little more than 10 km of gravel grinding.

Almost noon and we pass by an inviting beer garden. Stop! Turn around, we'll have an early lunch. And that was a good idea, too. On this beautiful Sunday there are many cyclists out and the tables fill up quickly. I order a "radi brotzeit". Radi is a big white radish or daikon, served sliced thin and salted. Along with it was Swiss cheese and a creamy cheese mixture flavored with paprika. All of this is topped with raw onions and accompanied by dark bread. It was much more than I could eat.

The path is smooth in the afternoon and the last portion takes us through a large park on the bank of the Danube at Regensburg. After leaving the river, we work our way through the small streets to our hotel, located directly next to the train station.

The hotel looks pretty new, has many stories so we know there will be an elevator - so nice not to have to drag the bags up many stairs at the end of the day. The reception is very friendly and we are given our key and instructions where we can safely leave our bicycles for the night. It all looks good - I'm just wondering why it was so cheap.

We soon see why - our room is extremely tiny. It looks like the windows are sealed and air-con is necessary. And there are some other details that irritate me - until I finally realize I am tired and everything is irritating me. It turns out that the shower is fantastic, we can open the windows after all and there is plenty of room for the two of us. It doesn't take long for my good spirits to return and we go out for a look at Regensburg and an evening meal.

Regensburg has a population of approximately 150,000 and is the fourth largest city in Bavaria. The medieval centre of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and we - along with masses of other tourists - have a look around. A short look it is - it's hot, the narrow streets are crowded and we've been here before.

A cool drink in a cafe seems like a good idea - here my aperol spritz.

Gradually the streets empty, we stretch our legs and take another look at the Danube before we have dinner and head back to the hotel.

It's quiet now. Most of the visitors have gone home or gotten back on their Danube Cruise ship.

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Today's ride: 39 km (24 miles)
Total: 109 km (68 miles)

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