July 1, 2016
Fauquier - Lumby, BC: Over the Monashee Mountains!
Our night's rest was fitful. The cabin across the way had a brilliantly bright front door light that shone like a spot light through our front door window and directly through the cabin to our bed. There was not a bedroom door, but a curtain. If we pulled the curtain the air from the one fan wouldn't reach the bed. The choices were to sleep in a spot light or with a fan. Jacinto voted for the fan. Which meant sleeping only on my side to try and avoid the light. Ah, well.
Our breakfast was at 6:30. Leslie said she would do one seating only, we had to agree on the time. jacinto was all for a 9:00 breakfast, but Oren and I outvoted him.
We would be taking the ferry across the Columbia River. It runs from this side on the hour and the half hour. It is considered part of the highway system and there is no charge. Oren and I were planning to eat quickly and depart at 7:00 to bicycle the 3.5 kilometers to the ferry.
The question is - could we eat quickly with Leslie? We knew breakfast was fresh fruit with yogurt and a muffin. Kicking Horse coffee was mentioned several times. I had a quart of milk before leaving the cabin. Oren had a coffee drink and a meat pastry. Fruit and a muffin sounds very nice - but not exactly what we need for 5,000 of climbing. I was hoping for more protein and had asked for such when Jacinto went to the convenience store last night. He came back with two cans of tuna (I don't have a can opener) and a can of Stagg's chili. He also had three meat pastries and that quart of milk. Of course, since he bought all of that for me, I had to make an attempt. I drank the milk and carried one pastry and the chili. I don't know what he was thinking with the tuna. 6 AM is pretty early to eat tuna, even if you can get the can open. Jacinto said since I have a knife, that is plenty good. I reminded him the first time I used that knife to cut an apple, I also cut my finger. I sure don't want to try and use it to open a can!
Since Oren was up at 5:10 (not that I noticed or anything, Oren) - we were ready in plenty of time for breakfast. Even Jacinto was up and about. We walked down to Leslie's. The fruit really was delicious and we managed to make a quick get away. Jacinto said he didn't think we would make the ferry in time, he would be right behind us and we'd probably all be on the same ferry. He was going to go ahead and get going because it was warm, there was nothing to do (no TV or wifi), and we had a big climbing day. It is the biggest day of the trip, climbing wise. I think. The Yaak day was also in the 5,000 neighborhood.
Sometimes we need to do alternative lodging because that's all there is. Today is an example. Sometimes we do alternative lodging to save money. The hostel in Nelson is an example. For the most part, I think we all like having a regular motel room. We know roughly what we are getting and we all have our own space.
Oren and I pedaled furiously. Luckily it was a downhill bent. We arrived at 7:22 and the ferry started boarding at 7:25. It was a pretty small ferry. There was one truck pulling a motor home. Three or four of those and the ferry would be full. We were directed to go to the front. By the time we walked the bikes up there, we were moving. It was only a seven minute ride. The captain (?) said he thought it was about a kilometer across, but he wasn't sure. He did know the seven minute part. He asked a few questions about our trip.
I don't think they see many loaded tourists in these parts, or we just aren't loaded enough. He was amazed we had all of our gear with us and didn't have a SAG. I had a different fellow keep asking me over and over where my motorhome was. I finally got him to look at my bags where I said all of my clothes are in there and my friend (Oren) has all of his clothes in his bags. It took a bit to sink in. Oren has lots more stuff than I do as he has two spare tires piled on top of his rack bag. My two bags are under the seat and then I have a seat bag on the seat, but no rear rack or rack bag. Jacinto bought that new tire in Nelson that he hasn't installed yet (now the other tire is holding air). But his panniers are empty enough that the tire is in a pannier.
I'd like to comment that my backing plate system is working well. I'm happy with it and would recommend it. I've finally figured out the system to put all 'stuff' in one and all clothing in the other, packed around my computer for extra protection. The weight of the dry sacks are the same, but the bulk of the stuff dry sack is less. The sacks don't look quite as nice loaded up as the lumpy stuff is lumpy. Imagine that? I put anything I think I need in last and that's easy to get to. Purchases can be added in at the last minute. I have yet to need anything at the bottom of a bag, but that would probably require removing it from the rack. I have two 20 liter bags and have loads of extra space. I am using the Sea to Summit Big River dry bags. They have lighter bags, but these are the ones with lashing points. Casual research didn't find other brands with lashing points. I could have gone smaller. But at 6 ounces a bag, is there really a need? An occasionally important down side is not being able to take a to go container with food. Or other delicate/wet food items. I would have carried the carrot cake for Oren, if I had been able.
Oh - before I forget - for those coming to Canada. the first several spots we stopped over the border took American money and gave us the appropriate amount of Canadian money back. I think I told the story about making money when I bought a V-8? However, the further we've gotten into Canada, now they take our American money, but give us 1:1 on exchange. Which is a huge profit for them as the exchange rate is $1.29 cents to the American dollar. We were paying cash for restaurants, but have now started using a credit card until we can get to a bank to get Canadian dollars. Both Jacinto and Oren have baggies full of Canadian coins. I told Oren today no wonder he was feeling the climb, he had a half a baggie of coins!
Back to the day - after our short ferry ride it was time to ride up (very up) away from the landing. I shifted immediately into the bottom of the granny. I was panting heavily right away and my thighs were complaining about the immediate abuse. Oren was in totally the wrong gear and had to make a little loop.
I had said in advance that I was going to do my thing and Oren should do his. Climbing is very personal. But Oren was nice and stayed with me the whole day. One advantage of the ferry is that the traffic was very light and came in spurts. What a nice day for a big climb. Leslie had told us how lucky we were that it was Canada Day as the loggers and 'chip trucks' (dump trucks pulling another truck) were on vacation. We would only be on the road with cars.
We kept looking behind us for Jacinto, expecting he would catch up. There was a big bottom of the granny gear climb to start from the ferry. Then it eased off and was still climbing, but middle chain ring climbing. I can do that. It was going to be a big, but gradual climbing day.
We had had any number of people with extreme reactions to our intended route. Expressions ranged from surprise to horror and back again. The motorcycle riders were very respectful when we said we were pedaling over the mountains they just rode over. By the time they all got done building the climb up, we were almost afraid to get out the door.
At mile 17, who should appear but Jacinto. Jacinto had seen a bear just before meeting us. I think perhaps my music is keeping us from seeing as many animals. Oren's wife, Carol, probably thinks that's a good thing. She sent links to three (!) articles yesterday about grizzly bears attacking and killing people. She offered to come and pick Oren up to keep him safe. Isn't that love? I wrote her back and pointed out all of those people were on dirt paths and surprised the bears. We are on pavement and my music gives them notice of our approach. Plus, the last time I did the Icefields Parkway I saw multiple bear each day. They didn't pay me a bit of attention as I cycled past, they were too busy eating breakfast. Admittedly, these weren't grizzlies. After writing all of that to Carol, she wrote back and said she asked Oren for his life insurance policy before he left on this trip. That would make things easier. What a practical and loving woman!
We chatted some and then he took off. I gave him directions that the reservation is in Oren's name, but he had two rooms. For some reason when I tried to make a reservation, Harry wouldn't take my name or credit card. It is the only motel in town after a very long day. The next place to stay was Vernon, 16 miles down the road. I wanted to know I had a place to stay for certain. I finally asked Oren to call. Harry gave him a better rate by $10. and also took his credit card. I had Oren call back and get a second room. Oren said it sounded to him like Harry is from India. I don't know if there was a problem since I'm female, but we did get a room. Plus Oren got the better price!
I was feeling good at mile 17. The worst of the climb would be over by mile 20, and the top at mile 34. That all sounded nice. Except 17 miles was only 1/4th of our day. Yes, it's going to be a long day. I haven't been eating wheat for several years. Jacinto bought some meat pastries and I had a few bites of one. It tasted SO good. It's probably not smart for me to be indulging, but I was enjoying the indulgence. After drinking that quart of milk in the morning, I hadn't been drinking much water or Spiz. I was appreciating the cool weather. Yesterday had been pretty hot. We were going along awhile and Oren pointed out that the blue sky was gone and now a uniform gray. Should we be worried about that?
The climb continued to be middle chain ring. Just get her done. We were riding along the river. Pine trees, aspen trees, lots of ferns and flowers. It is indeed Beautiful British Columbia. We had one more granny gear climb and there we were! A summit sign. So nice. We were expecting to see it at mile 34, but I will take an early summit sign any day.
I'm ready for the downhill. I'm ready for town. Really ready. My idea of a good climbing day is a straight shot to the bottom from the top. Think Slumgullion Pass to Lake City - summit sign to the hotel in 20 minutes. But that is an extreme. For sure I wasn't thinking of today. There was no big downhill to start. Add in the headwind and you'd never guess we had summited. At this rate we weren't even half way through the day and we were pedaling at 8 miles an hour. With a 69 mile day. Well. That's just not rider friendly.
A few miles down the road I could tell I didn't have enough energy. I mixed up an extra strong dose of Spiz. Ugh. It tasted horrible, but energy powered through my body. My mind might be ready to quit - luckily my legs were still willing to pedal. BTW, Jim Fitch is bringing me five bags of Spiz. He is hoping it's Spiz - or perhaps he's just the patsy crossing who knows what over the border! I had two servings of Spiz left. I will be most happy to receive those five bags. That was a huge help to not have to carry the weight for the first two weeks of the trip. Thank you, Jim!
I don't suppose I mentioned the headwind? It's just not fair to have a headwind on the downhill. I forced myself to look around. this is what we are out here for, to see the slights and there was plenty to see.
I would recommend our route so far. The only part that would be a caution was going around the Flathead Lake by Bigfork on Highway 35. It seems that opinion is mine only. I repeated it to Oren and Jacinto and they both shrugged their shoulders. They did agree the other busy traffic spot was coming out of Nelson while 3A and 6 were together. That was only a few miles. After the split, 6 was quiet. We have been following 6 for days. It's a great cycling road.
I kept figuring and refiguring how long it would take me to get to town at my rate of speed. It wasn't a happy number and didn't seem to be getting happier. Damn. The sky was getting grayer and grayer. No clouds, just gray. I wanted to tell myself to back off and enjoy the view. But I kept watching the sky, thinking the further down the mountain I got, the more chance the headwind would diminish and the more chance to beat the rain.
I could feel a few drops now and then, but nothing serious. Wait. There's Oren stopped on the downhill. ??? Is he putting on his raincoat? I'm not doing that until it's really raining. It is warm, maybe I won't put it on at all. I passed him by. Pedal, pedal. Get ahead of the rain. Or am I really riding in to it?
I soon reached Cherryville. There was a restaurant/bar on the right, close to the golf course. They had a way cool advertisement of a real motorcycle with a mannequin carrying golf clubs and skis. It was mounted high on a sign by the highway. Did either of the guys see it? No. I knew if there was one thing today that should be photographed, that was it. Damn. I'm really missing not being able to take photos. This camera will take photos, but I can no longer send them anywhere. I don't know what's wrong. I've tried deleting everything off that isn't in use. This is a hell of a vacation to be on without a camera.
I had to have something to drink. For miles I had been looking at the 32 oz bottle of water mounted in the Looney Bin on my top tube. I needed to stop long enough to transfer some of that water to my drinking bottle. But I kept hoping I would get to town. It just wasn't going to happen. I needed to eat and drink or I wouldn't make it to town. 70 miles is a very long riding day. Especially with 5,000 feet of climbing. I'm very happy my body is on the job. Mentally, I was ready a while back.
I pulled over in a country driveway to make the water transfer. What is my luck, but a man comes out and wants to talk about my bike, he is interested in buying one. I was only a medium good advocate. I chatted while I did the water thing and getting the last of the meat pastry. Oren pulled up and asked how far to town. The man said with confidence that by bicycle it was an hour and a half. I certainly hope not! The man would have talked more, but I pointed out we were trying to beat the rain. Off we went, Oren leading.
About ten miles outside of town it started raining in earnest. There's no convincing myself it was a little sprinkle that might stop. At least we were on the downhill now. We had had a few really big downhills that made me happy we weren't climbing this side. I pointed this out over dinner, but the guys both agreed they thought the side we climbed was also tough.
The rain quit, or we rode out of it as we came into town. Our motel (the only one) was on the edge of town. Oren rode past. ??? Where was he going. I yelled at him. Yay for arriving. I had 69.84 miles. I'm counting that as 70.
My clothes were mostly dry now. I was still ready for a shower. I got our room number and knocked on the door. Nothing. I pounded on the door. Here was Jacinto. He had just barely arrived and was getting in the shower. He hadn't stopped for an extended time, but had just been slightly ahead of us all day.
While Jacinto showered, I cleaned my bike with a rag Jacinto had picked up on the side of the road. I found a zip tie from my fender had broken at some point during the day.
Oren wandered outside. It was 4 PM, but he is famished. We agreed to eat as soon as I showered and Jacinto talked to his mom. We went over to the restaurant next door. They had the air on. As soon as we ordered, I went back for another shirt and shoes instead of sandals.
We had to ask the waitress what the tipping customs were in Canada. She was a younger girl and was quite embarrassed at the question. The answer is, 10-15%, but don't feel you have to. Now we know.
We all had leftovers. For all of that work, we didn't have much appetite. Jacinto was mourning the lack of hot sauce. He asked for some, but got buffalo wing sauce. It was 50 cents. Maybe it's the custom here to charge for things like that in restaurants? We had to pay for rice at the Chinese restaurant in Nelson.
Now we are back at the room and I'm furiously trying to catch up with the journal . Please excuse the lack of editing. I will go back later.
Another unorganized thought. When Jacinto checked in to the room, Harry told him if he paid cash American dollars it was $91. or $101. on a charge card in Canadian. It was presented that the American cash would be a savings, but it isn't. Jacinto was also told not to put the bike in the room. Oren didn't get the cash offer and also wasn't told anything about putting the bike in the room.
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Today's ride: 70 miles (113 km)
Total: 670 miles (1,078 km)
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