21 April Montpellier to Arles

April 21, 2023

Check out my activity on Strava: https://strava.app.link/aFzOVjQ1czb

The plan today was to cycle to Arles where I would, again, meet up with Francois. He has a small apartment there and has invited me to stay which is a very generous offer. The decision making by both of us was late in the process as he had planned to continue for a further two days exploring the Camargue. He changed his mind as was cycling out and back to Arles allowing us to meet.

The initial route took me out of Montpellier. As I mentioned yesterday I liked the French architecture of the city centre but as I travelled this disappeared and the suburbs became as anonymous as any other city until I cam across this very strange and modern use of glass, mirror and colour. I think I like it.

Thereafter I was guided back to the coast where I again joined to long distance EV8. It was mostly pleasant although the resort of La Grande Motte was pretty horrible. I did find a busy harbour area to stop for a coffee and then a wonderful liquorice ice cream.

Eventually I was rewarded with a visit to Aigues-Mortes. Another historic town with a walled township. It was very busy and whilst I stopped for lunch I didn't want to try and find my way through the tourists vying for seats in the cafes and restaurants. It was windy so I sought out a sunny but sheltered corner where I ate my cheeses, bread and apple.

Then it was a bit of a slog into the wind across the coastal flatland to Saint Gilles. This was mostly a cycleway but some of it was plain grass which was heavy going. It certainly drained the legs.

From Saint Gilles it was relatively quiet roads into Arles.

I headed for Francois' apartment and the relief of a shower and some clean clothes.

Then I was treated to a lovely, guided tour of the town. It really is ancient with numerous sites of Roman remains including a sizeable amphitheatre. Apparently this could accommodate 25,000 people watching bull baiting and fighting. We visited a couple of large churches and generally looked around the town. Francois is very interested in ancient Greek and Roman history and he was very happy to share his knowledge.

Eventually we cut the tour short as my stomach was crying out for food (as usual).