April 19, 2023
19 April Beziers to Montpellier
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https://www.strava.com/activities/8919218272
We stayed in a town centre hostel. The bed was comfy enough but that's probably the best I can say about the hostel in Beziers. The building was tired and the cleanliness left a bit to be desired. I had a room to myself with a double bed and ONE power point. Given my reliance on technology for keeping in touch and route planning and booking accommodation this was not good. It was a fine balance which I got wrong meaning we set off with my bike computer not recharged. Thankfully the start of the ride was still on the canal and once on the canal there was little variation. I managed to charge it during the first couple of hours of riding. I had access to a shared toilet. It was so shared that the owner had seen fit to break the lock so that the door could not actually close never mind lock. So sitting on the big required determined whistling to deter anyone interrupting you. The carpet and walls of the toilet were rather disgusting. I was quite glad to leave it behind.
I was still riding with Francois with me heading to a hostel in Montpellier and Francois trying to a bit further and even considering going all the way to Arles where is staying. That would be 160km or so, almost twice my planned route.
We generally didn't stop much meaning nonso many photos. However what I really did notice was that the smell in the air changed. It was a warm, Mediterranean smell which reminded me of previous holidays in and around the med area. A touch of the sea backed by wild herbs and a nice mustiness. Later in the day I cycled through some pines and that just amplified the smell. It was a fine, fine experience.
It didn't take too long and we were approaching the coast and when we reached the outskirts of Agde I thought we were there. However the roads and paths seemed to go on forever and forever. I was beginning to lose hear at seeing the sea anytime soon. All of the sudden the dual carriageway and traffic disappeared and it was just people on bikes, scooter and walking on a path beside a sand dune. I stopped at a path, dumped the bike and hurried up to the top of the dune and there it was. Calm, sparking and fresh. The last salt water I had seem was the Atlantic on the bay of Biscay and here I was looking at the Mediterranean. I felt rather pleased with myself!!
We continued along the coast although, most of the time, we couldn't see the sea due to the protective sand dune running between the path and the beach. I could smell it though. Distinct in its own right and not at all like the sea at home in Dunbar.
We passed through several small coastal towns awash with yachts, boats and fishing vessels. Eventually stopping for lunch, consisting of the sandwich I bought earlier leaving Beziers and Peruvian dark chocolate courtesy of Francois.
As can be seen on the map we also cycled along a natural sand bar which I understand forms part of a national park or protected area. It was very pretty cycling although so flat the scenery was a tad limited.
Eventually Francois and I parted company as he headed further along the coast and I cut inland towards Montpellier. The cycleway was very pleasant and quiet. This gave me a false sense of security....
The approach to the outskirts of the city suddenly became industrial with lots of traffic and junctions and no cycleway. I've never felt threatened by the traffic but it was uncomfortable riding for a wee while. In some sense it was better when it ground to a halt in a tailback. Thankfully I peeled off into a quieter road about 7km out from the centre and suddenly I found myself on a tiny footpath surrounded by rough ground and trees. Then it was a stony path. Then it was a stony path which was too rough to cycle then it was a stony path through bushes which were grabbing and ripping at my legs, my luggage and the bike. I need to send an email to the routing software people, it was a nightmare. Thankfully the nightmare was short lived and I was thrown out on to quieter commercial park roads and then the city centre. I don't think I have seen a city with as many tram tracks as Montpellier. They are everywhere.
It didn't take long to find my hostel. In this regard the routing software did its job! The hostel is brand new. So new some of it is not finished. No kitchen, no food storage, on site laundry not ready and, worst of all, nowhere for bikes!! Manuel on reception was brilliant and he walked me to a secure bike park at the station. CCTV and a locking gate meant I was happy.
The good thing was I had a bottom bunk. I'm getting to old for climbing onto the top of adult bunk beds. Then in found out the beds are torpedo tube style, that is you sleep sticking out from the wall rather than along it. It means that our room fitted 10 beds rather than say 6. Not great if you are claustrophobic.
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Today's ride: 143 km (89 miles)
Total: 1,421 km (882 miles)
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