April 12, 2016
Which is Which: Route 5-km330 to 227.
Its a damp cloudy morning, though not raining. The sun unable to make any impact in thick cloud cover. How long would I have to wait for the tent to dry before taking it down and packing. Too long. So I've packed it wet and set off at nine.
It is carefree riding on this road if uninspiring. I did look at the alternatives; well, the only alternative on this side of the Andes, would've been along the coast, but I decided against that road because I assume it would be busy without a shoulder; whereas 5, is busy, but I don't need to worry about the traffic when I've an ample shoulder. In any case I'm not going to be many more days riding route 5.
I am glad on reaching the day's first service station not far south of the next major town, Talca, because I'm feeling particularly hungry. This place only has a small cafeteria which serves only sandwiches, hamburgers and pastries. The pictures above the counter make them look so wholesome, but the reality is a sad looking hamburger I see put on another customer's table. Instead, I play safe by having just coffee with a raspberry puff-pastry, which, when I bite into it, is more reddish syrup than raspberry.
Then I try connecting to the wifi without success. There's two strokes in the network code which I can't decipher, that could either be a "1" (one), small "l" (L), or large case "I" (i); you see, they look the same when in the above form. What I would suggest is, "one" shouldn't be used, "i" only in small case and "L" never small case.
Nevertheless, I get the computer fully charged and edit the few photos I took these last days. Though leave still needing to stop for lunch later.
On passing Talca, I spot a supermercado on the other side and fortunately, there's a footbridge across the road with ramp up and another ramp down the other side instead of stairs, so I crossover.
It doesn't appear a normal supermercado when I get there. Then once I've locked the bike against a bike rack and have taken a photo of a kid's BMX bike, a security guard come over and says I cannot shop here and explains, something about needing a special card, whatever. Then grim faced unlocking the bike to leave, a teenage boy and ten year old boy come over, the older of the two says "the bike's owner" nodding toward the younger, who stirs at me mutely, seemingly perplexed that I'd taken a photo of his bike. "Oh, hola" I exclaim with a long face and continue on my way.
Back on the road it starts dripping rain as it had been threatening all day. But shortly after donning my raincoat it stops, so I take the raincoat off. Then, the rain starts yet again and I stop and don the raincoat a second time, only for it to quit raining again, making me wish it would make its mind up whether to rain or not.
The rain holds off and further on, I see a cyclist ahead. I immediately think perhaps Helmut, but, on drawing nearer, see a completely different bike and panniers, although the rider looks alike with his beard. He also looks fairly familiar. The bike is resting on it's side-stand and he is off the road bent down; it looks as though he's inspecting the stones just at the side of the road, when I pull level. Then, as he straightens up and says hello, having recognized me, I instantly recall the young Frenchman I saw that day on the Seven Lakes route a few weeks ago. He enthusiastically tells me all where he's been since we met last, so, I see he's still enjoying his first cycle tour and is now on his way to Santiago.
I could've spoken with him longer, but I am ravaged with hunger and having seen a sign for a service station a few kilometres ahead, I excuse myself and head for it. And although half three when I get there, they are still serving "menu of the day" lunch, which I was fearing would've been finished for the day. A starter salad, a yogurt desert and choice of three main courses. I go for a chicken-vegetable casserole with rice. The total comes to 5400 pesos (£5.50).
I ride for another hour when I halt at a gap in the fence into a plot which is part brown turf pasture, part eucalypus grove, finding a spot to pitch the tent a comfortable distance from the road therein. A powder dry place and well drained as it looks like it'll be a wet night.
Supper is the last of the pasta. The only other thing wherewith to flavour it is an onion, so tomorrow I'll be getting off the road and looking for a supermercado.
Later as I write, I look out and see a crescent moon in a clear sky, so there's hope for some sun tomorrow.
Today's ride: 103 km (64 miles)
Total: 8,251 km (5,124 miles)
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