April 2, 2016
What Next: Pine Plantation to lakeshore.
Although a good place to camp, the pine plantation is very cold this morning with being in shade. The sun still fairly low, just breaking through the treetops when I've broken camp and try riding the sandy track back to the road. The rear wheel sinks into the sand upon a minute rise of a few metres and I'm off pushing, then remount until the next small rise where I push again until reaching the gate and the business of taking off panniers and lifting the bike over the gate. Then putting panniers back on.
Pine plantations to the side continue for some way; mainly regulated lines of young trees, but a few blocks of mature trees there amongst, like where I'd camped. The main natural feature is the conical volcano Lanin, just ahead to begin with, then flanking the left side; by which time I've passed the last of the plantation and the right side is open steppe across to wooded hills.
I had been on this road in 2006. Then it was all unpaved the forty or so kilometres before the border and a further thirty kilometres on the Chilean side where loose and rough ripio until reaching tarmac. And so I was glad to see the road now sealed in the intervening years, having ridden enough unpaved roads over the years to do a lifetime. It come then as a disappointment further on when, I come to the entrance to Lanin national park and find to the side a "Fin Pavemento" sign: the tarmac ends and road surface onward natural, which in this case is much like the track from where I'd camped back in the plantation, loose and sandy with a gradual climb up toward the border. The rear wheel spins out from under me and I'm off pushing much of the way until gaining the ascent. The road levelling out and I can trudge on slowly. About here a kind Argentine driver stops and hands me out a chocolate coated biscuit, which is much appreciated.
At the Argentine border, there is quite a queue. The officer behind the desk is giving a young Argentine couple hell because they don't have the right documentation. I am glad when it's my turn and I get his woman colleague, who briefly types the details from my passport into her computer, then stamps the passport and I'm free to leave.
I lunch a kilometre further sat upon deadwood among Monkey Puzzle trees, eating the last of my bread which I won't be allowed take into Chile. This bread is a week old, bought the day I left Puerto Varas, so actually Chilean, but I won't be believed and allowed take it back into it's country of origin. Then continue to the Chile border post. Here I'm in the process of disposing of a potato and garlic I found in my food bag, when an inspector come along a tad too quickly for my liking and seeing these disallowed plant produces in my procession, checks the rest of my bags in case I may have any listed banded produces.
The tarmac starts immediately on the Chilean side of the border. The way downhill and in another national park with a long name I didn't note. I only ride a few kilometres more when I come to a serene green lake with black volcanic sandy beach, an idea place to camp even though it is only three o'clock, but it is only 90km to Villarica, which is my gold for tomorrow, so I stop early. I remain sat on the lakeshore for the afternoon reading, then pitch the tent when the sun goes down.
When I've eaten my meagre supper of pasta, I put the camera memory card into the computer reader slot and feel it fold. I take it out again with great care, finding the card split but hasn't broke in half, which I'd feared. I can still process the pictures I took today upon the computer.
Yesterday my pannier broke and now this. I am wondering what next will break.
Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 7,601 km (4,720 miles)
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