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I arrive in Cachi about ten o'clock with the brakes no longer working after all the descending combined with wetting the wheels got crossing all the streams yesterday. Suffice to say, anyone riding south on route 40, across Abra de Cay, it'd be advisable to carry two spare sets of brake pads and expect to change them for the ones on the bike not long after crossing the streams, whereupon wet rims and brake pads will chew up on further steep declines until down in the valley bottom.

I didn't have spares, but there's still a small bit of wear left in the pads. All I have to do is tighten up the brake-calibers so the pads reach the rim. To do this I unload the bike and set up workshop in the village plaza. I get a few spectators while anxiously working with allen key, hoping what brake wear I have will get me back to Salta, minding there's a long descent on the way. I get asked all the usual questions, where and when I began cycling. Where I'm cycling next of a big man. Then his wife come along and asks me the same questions, again.

When I've done the brakes, I manage to find a hole in the inner tube from the other day's pinch puncture and patch it.

I stop by a parrilla (barbeque) eating place for an early lunch, having grilled chicken and salad. Shortly after sitting down at the outside table, a bus pulls up outside blocking my view of my unlocked bike on the opposite side of the street while a group of Buenos Aires pensioners file off, though it is only a few minutes until they're all off and the bus moves on and I see my bike again. By now a big black dog has lain down in front of the bike as if acting as guard dog, then gets up and comes over and lies beside my table, supposedly hoping I'll give it whatever chicken bones are leftover. It isn't just me that has got a new friend, as three other dogs and a cat have gathered at the feet of the pensioners that have filled out the other tables, expect to be given scraps too.

In the early afternoon I cycle around looking for a place to stay. One hospedaje (guesthouse) want 800 pesos (£40). Then, I find a hostel where the woman shows me a private on-suit room for 150 pesos (£7.50) with breakfast included. A bargain, so I move in.