February 13, 2016
Storming Tailwind: Route 3, km2431 to km2340-Rio Chico.
It is a completely clear blue sky frosty cold start to the day wearing down jacket underneath wind jacket and wearing winter gloves. And the wind rises from the south west not long after setting off at quarter to eight and so I've a tailwind, the road's general direction being north east. I'm still surrounded by black scrub interspersed with spiky tuffs of dry yellow grass to the horizon on either side. There's guanaco everywhere. Like sheep on the road, when a car or truck come along the noise cause them to take off running, often dashing cross the road in front of the vehicle to reach their herd, causing the vehicle to a horn hooting halt.
I pass a left turn for El Calafate, a brown unpaved road running off into the distance. The same road that splits off route 40 where it starts a long climb about 50km east of the town. From here to Piedrabuena, there's 45km marked on the map and I'm bowling along with the wind. Though passing trucks are menacing in this wind. Oncoming, the turbulent suck just after they've met and gone by me blowing me to a wobbly halt, whereupon I need to hold on and control the bike well in order not to crash. Those going my way and passing, the fear is if there's oncoming cars at the same time. In such instances most slow behind me until the oncoming cars have passed and road is clear, then pass on the opposite side; however, there are the few that don't slow and pass leaving barely a metre. In most cases these blare the horn in warning when approaching from behind and so I ride off onto the gravel shoulder and let them by.
Further the road drops down through hills into a canyon with an entrance to a national park "Monte Leon" on the right. I think it's so named because there's a hill shaped like a lion (leon), or puma's head. The road on passes out into open plain and swings left where speed is reduced to a struggle with crosswind for most of the remaining ten kilometres to Piedrabuena; three kilometres before which, I pass a right turnoff for port town Santa Cruz, with a big tourist sign about the city being the historic capital of the province.
The way descends down through barrancas to the Santa Cruz valley with wide turquois hued river on the near side lined with the greenery of riverside willows, not quiet willows but a similar indigenous marshy environ tree. There's a large island in the river, green with the same, Isla Pavon. This is where Piedra Luis Buena of the town's name made his home. A nineteen century seaman who made a living by trading with the Tehuelches, but is most famous for his selflessness in saving many from shipwrecks on the coast of southern Patagonia. https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luis_Piedra_Buena
I cross the bridge and turn off into town along an avenue lined with alternate fluttering hard in the wind light blue and white Argentine flags and Yellow and white papal flags. Then at the end of avenue roundabout there's a big poster of pope Francis, so there must've been a papal visit recently. Just beyond is a La Anonomia supermercado where I can stock up for the next leg to Puerto San Julian, 120km north.
It has gone half eleven when I've done shopping and the supermercado front is east facing, sheltered from the wind I sit down by my bike to lunch, the sun pleasantly warm. A kind woman approaches me and asks am I going to El Chalten; as from here there's route 288 for a few hundred kilometre west to Tres Lagos, then a hundred and twenty more to Chalten, an epic ride against headwind; it perhaps looks to her the most obvious place I could be headed for. I say no, I'm heading north on route 3. Then she offers to let me camp in her garden. I say no thanks, its early and I'd prefer to continue this afternoon.
I struggle with headwind back along the avenue whence I entered and rejoin 3. A kilometre further I pull into an YPF service station to replenish my water supply and use the cafe's wifi, which is extremely slow and tea costs me 25 pesos for hot water and a teabag. The café cliental are a blend of Argentine holiday makers spending loads of money, and campertrucks with French, Swiss and German plates being more fugal. There's also a few Brazilian and Uruguayan motorcyclists, one with a nice old Honda.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
I leave town around two, climbing a long hill diagonally up the barrancas on the north side of the valley, made easy by a strong tailwind directly on my back. I stop to take a photo, but it isn't easy with the wind so strong. Then cresting the top I'm glad the road doesn't deviate but continues dead straight. With this wind I could perhaps reach San Julian today, but it'd be late, preferring to aim for an early stop at Rio Chico, 30km from Piedrabuena, which will mean an easy day, somewhat a rest day, then make a big push tomorrow.
Soon the barrancas of said river valley come into view and there's a sharp descend into the valley where the road swings left and there's a struggle with crosswind for a few kilometres until swinging back right for the bridge over Rio Chico, the same river I camped along upstream in December when on route 40. Anyway, I reach the track down from the bridge approach having covered 33km in an hour from Piedrabuena. I choose a spot as sheltered as possible; in the lea of the bridge footing would've been perfect, but for the ground being marshy there. I take forty minutes pitching and securing the tent with guys. Then boil water for tea in the shelter of the outer tent, intent on a relaxed afternoon while the wind howls away outside.
I have decided I've had enough reading of my book "At Home With The Patagonians" in which the author, a seaman, describes walking under trees for the first time in months, like a seaman on land. It inspires me to escape this barren treeless waste and make for the nearest greener place with trees and grass in abundance. I will make for Chile. I will continue north 350km more on 3 to Fitzroy, from there turn west on route 43, 360km to los Antiquos and the border.
Today's ride: 91 km (57 miles)
Total: 5,523 km (3,430 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 0 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |