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Here I am a second night in Tilcara, staying in a hostel called Farolito, meaning, little lantern, as in front porch light.

I'm browned off with camping at the moment because it's so cold here at night and in the mornings. Its only pleasantly warm from 11 am to sunset about 6,30, when the only thing to do is get into the sleeping bag and zip it up snugly. I fear now that the zipper on the sleeping bag will no longer hold. Already this has been the case: the zip coming apart leaving the sleeping bag open to the cold, temporarily remedied by squeezing both sides of the zipper together using pliers. This was quite a while ago, so the zipper is long due to stop working again.

There's holidays in July and the town of Tilcara is full of domestic tourists. The big attraction is the UNESCO heritage site of pre-Colombian ruins of a citadel on the hill to the south of town.

However, there is another history at the moment. The 9th of July this year is the Bi-centenary of independents from Spain. On the TV in the place I eat lunch, there is live coverage from Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires of a battle reenactment, with troops in historic battle uniforms like on a film set, comprising three cornered hats and kilts from the year 1816, showing them load muskets and taking aim at their opponents. Though its hard for me as an outsider to say which side is which; but one side would be royalist (for Spain) and the other independence fighters.

I was going to email Leendert, the Dutch cyclist I met in Salta, as he should be in the area, but this evening while sitting in another place eating, he turns up at the door looking at the menu price list. I get his attention and over eating empanadas, tells me he's been up to the border with Bolivia and now heading south, wants to may be try crossing Abra de Cay pass, provided he gets a few good days.

I myself hope for good weather the next week or so. There's been snow up in the mountains a week ago and Leendert had strong headwind one day.

So fingers crossed I don't get caught out.