February 19, 2016
Howling Wind: Near Route 40 to near Perito Moreno.
I have a night of lying awake and drifting in and out of light sleep, then sleep in to quarter to seven; when, I wanted to get away early before the wind starts blowing. The sun this morning has risen behind a bank of dark blue rain cloud, though perfectly still, not a breath of wind. I'm afraid that won't last for long, so am anxious to get on the road as quick as possible. My morning routine from getting out of the sleeping bag to pushing the bike out to the road is down to one hour twenty minutes, so I'm rolling shortly after eight. It seems such a joy to use normal bigger gears and be pedalling freely like this, without the usual head or crosswind, unlike the hard grind of the previous few days.
Not far on there's a lengthy downhill into a dry valley, which if I had kept riding the evening before a little longer, I would've found a much better campsite than right next the roadside where I did. The dry river at the bottom with banks providing shelter would have been perfect. Then there's an equally lengthy uphill, levelling out upon plateau with a gradual rise to a flat horizon. About here there's a sudden breeze which quickly develops to a strong north westerly. The wind although near enough relentless on route 43 to this point, hasn't been more than I could manage, but today's wind already is much stronger. In gusts it blows into the bike from the right side and I feel the strain as the gear I'm pedalling is suddenly too big and the rear wheel feels like its under terrible strain as my pedalling is slowed to a fight to keep them turning and keep my balance as the wind pushes the bike sideways. Needless to say I am soon in the lowest climbing gear crawling along at walking pace being pushed from the side out across the road. I eventually crest a rise I've struggled up and unsurprisingly see the road dip down and go straight ahead up a gradual incline to a flat brown horizon. Though, now the cordillera (range) of the Andes are in sight beyond, shrouded in low cloud.
Cresting another rise I see route 40, a grey line descending the hilly steppe to the north west, coming down to meet the road ahead on the right, which is a milestone, as it is only 21km more to Perito Moreno, followed by 57 or whatever, all maps and road signs disagree, kilometres to Los Antiquos.
I descend and struggle the last few kilometres to Perito Moreno just before noon. A town in a basin upon a small river, Rio Fenix. The town enclosed in stands of trees, the greenery contrasting with ochre surroundings of arid hills. At a big roundabout I continue straight, following a sign for a La Anonima supermercado conveniently located to the left of the road on to Los Antiquos. I manager to find a fresh baguette, just the right size so I won't have half leftover, for lunch of a tuna sandwich, which I eat in the sheltered east facing side, though not all that sheltered, the wind getting in here too; blowing just as hard as it has been all morning; now with that depressing howl in overhead power cables to spotlights in the car park against leaden sky. And as for wind chill its a real cold day.
I set off again at quarter to two after refilling the water bottles, prepared to find some place not far on sheltered enough to camp, as there is no way I'll cover 56km to Los Antiquos in this storm.
The way on climbs away from town before levelling out upon the usual steppe rising to a near horizon, depressing, but, the mountains are just beyond that.
After a slow six or seven kilometres, I come to a hummock where the modern road is cut through and an old wagon track curves round to the left. I ride off along the track until the way on round to re-join the road is blocked by scrub and the bank of the hill provides good shelter, so I pitch the tent, guying it well as the wind can still make it's presents felt.
It is only three o'clock when I settle into the tent for a restful afternoon and later have a bottle of wine with my pasta supper to celebrate making it this far with only 50km more west, mostly with a large lake, Lago Buenos Aires to the side. I must hope for a still morning tomorrow.
Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 6,264 km (3,890 miles)
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