Big Wagons: Route 22, km985 to 1121.

November 24, 2015

The storm woke me early, the tent pelted by rain and wind flapping the tent fly-sheet hard. It is still not daylight so, I grabble for the head-torch, put it on and shine it on my watch, seeing 04.19. I soon sleep again. Next I awake, it is a still, clear sunny morning, but with rain persisting off to the east.

A few kilometres on the road drops gentle down into the Rio Negro valley. Not quite a valley as I would know it in Europe, more a green agricultural plain of rectangular fields enclosed by tall popular tree hedges, along which are irrigation channels: the far side, opposed from where I descend, a cliff, or barrancas, a good fifteen or so kilometres ahead, brownish and rising to a dead level horizon.

I have reached the wonderfully named small town of Choele Choel. I don't know the origin of the name, but clearly native American. And as I lean my bike outside a supermercado, I see in through the window all eyes turn in my direction. The checkout girl rises in her seat and stares as the burly security guard opens the door for me. I just buy the bare essentials, a pallet of ham and cheese sandwiches, tuna for pasta and more mate, to do me until reaching Neuquén tomorrow and a bank, where I can use my card.

Then back on route 22, I call into the YPF petrol station leaving town for coffee, a whopping thirty pesos, but good coffee, and get a page for yesterday created for my journal using the wifi.

Route 22, flanked by populars in the Rio Negro valley.

Choele Choel is where another road comes in, up the valley from the south from route 3, the main Atlantic coast road and joins route 22; which yesterday, was a desert traverse, however, this other road and 22 hereon, seems a main trucking route; whereas until Choele Choel, there was next to no traffic, the truck traffic in particular since passing town has vastly increased. Though, not increased to the point where its constant, with the death trap scenario of oncoming trucks and simultaneously trucks bearing down on me from behind, on what is a single-carriage without shoulder, but with a firm hard-pack to the side to ride off onto if the abovementioned scenario begins to occur. Therefore, there is always space and the trucks always swing out and pass giving me ample space, many giving a supportive hoot of the horn.

The road definitely much more pleasing, flanked much of the way by tall stands of popular enclosing fruit orchards, I think the area is an apple growing area. There are a few villages along the way; one called Darwin, another, Chelford. And mid morning a car slows and pulls to a stop to the side, a couple are out when I reach the car. They ask do I need anything. I reply no at first, but then think why not, saying water if they can spare some, to which the woman opens the back door and takes out and gives me a two litre bottle of water. They tell me they're on their way to do some hiking in Chile, and, they passed two Japanese cyclists, two days behind me, who have cycled from Canada.

Shortly after stopping for lunch, cloud begins to build with rain on the horizon and it is an afternoon of electric storms off to my right and behind, to the east with flashes and forks of lightening followed by distance rumbling of thunder. Though, apart from a few spots of rain, it passes over missing me.

The road having climbed again upon stepp, until an hour or so before dusk, where it becomes new dual-carriageway, winding back down into the valley to the town of Chichinales. There a sudden freak wind rises, creating a dust storm off along the unpaved streets running off the road. I struggle to a grove of trees on the other side of town, therein, find a bit of shelter behind a stout tree trunk; then grabble about to avoid becoming airborne until having the tent pitched and tied down securely with extra guy cords. Once I've done and settle into the tent to cook, the wind eases and it is still for the evening.

I stop at this memorial to a cyclist involved in a fatal road accident at this point.

A framed photo of the victim inside and a picture of Che, perhaps his hero.

Dual-carriageway route 22, descend to Chichinales.

Today's ride: 136 km (84 miles)
Total: 1,337 km (830 miles)

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