Big Break: Puerto Varas to 30km before Entrelagos.

March 26, 2016

For the last morning I tuck into the hostel buffet breakfast and being Easter, the hostel is full. There's even another tent right next mine belonging to a young Chilean couple who arrived late. Though they didn't disturb me at all as I slept like a stone. As usual breaking up camp takes forever after a stop in one place for many days. I always manage to have everything out and strewn around the tent and everything has to be put back in their rightful place. Though eventually I'm ready for an eleven o'clock start. I say goodbye to the staff, freewheel downhill into town and stop at the supermercado.

It is hard when I've spend a week eating whenever I'm hungry, to again envisage what I'll need for a few days on the road where there mightn't be shops. I'll be living again on a stringent diet of porridge in the mornings, bread or whatever I can muster for lunch and pasta before sleeping. I just buy those mentioned items as I don't like loading the bike too much. I ride out of town with a bike feeling too heavy, nevertheless. The pannier I reserve for cooking things and food stuffed to the brim. Much of the weight though due to liquid; four litres of water, litre carton of long life milk, the same of orange juice and same of wine.

Much of the heaviness is getting back into the swing of riding fully loaded again. The way out of town follows the lake shore of Lago Llanquihue, which is more like an inland sea, perhaps the size of an average Irish county or two together. The far side a distant pale blue line. The road still urban with many holiday homes and apartments, cafes and the like. The road surface bumpy broken in places concrete. Then going over an abrupt speed ramp, there's a sudden noisy knock followed by a flappy feel from the front left pannier.

I pull into the side and investigate. I see a stay of the low-rider rack which the panniers at the front mount onto, loose on the left side. I first think the bolt holding it has come loose and fallen out, but see the bolt still in place. Then see that the stay has actually snapped through the bolt hole, the weak point; seeing a crack and rough broken edge of the alloy. But all is not lost as it doesn't support the weight of the pannier; it is more for stabilising the load, holding the pannier steady, preventing it from flexing from side to side over bumpy road. I fix it much like one would fix a broken leg with a splinter to support the break, using a broken tent pole which I didn't throw away, reckoning it may turn out useful. I rap it in place, binding the two broken ends together using electrical insulating tape. Hopefully this fix will carry me to Santiago, with a whole street of bike shops, I'm sure I can find some alternative front rack.

The way further out into countryside is smooth tarmac with a cycle lane to the right side edged by solid white line with a broken white line in the middle like a usual vehicle road to separate me from oncoming cyclists; and rumple bumps to keep errant cars out. The road every so gently undulating, lined by overhanging broadleaf trees, woodland and pasture to the right, lake below on the left and the imposing conical volcano Orsorno ahead.

It is 41kms to Ensenada, a village with many restaurants and tourist accommodation, where I turn left to follow the lake around toward Puerto Octay. There is regular nice big green signs stating "Circuito de Lago Llanquihue" intended for motorised visitors, the cycle lane no more as the way climbs towards the volcano, Orsorno. The traffic on this Easter Saturday not as bad as I'd thought. there is however a car stopped and people enjoying every layby picnic spot when now after two and I'm looking for a place to stop and lunch. A lot of the people are gathering berries in the stunted woodland to the side. And the afternoon is quite warm and wherever I stop would need to have shade. I continue on for what must be a half an hour looking out for a lunch stop, until eventually coming to a car park with a railed fence providing a degree of shade.

It is quite late, near five when I set off again. I pass a really good stretch of lake shore with mature pines forest between it and the road. But, there are too many people using the beach and I find usually with such polpular places, they tend to be soiled with carelessly disposed rubbish. And any way there's still almost three hours until dark. Further on the way turns away from the lake with cattle pasture and little or no woodland for a long way and I start wishing I had stopped there.

I had planned on starting to look in earnest for a camping spot after six o'clock, but it is still all pasture to the side protected by well maintained fencing. I had thought by now I would've found somewhere and would be camped and have brewed up tea, as I'm parched with thirst.

I am glad though when I come to the right turn to Entrelagos, a landmark indicating I've done quite well today despite the late start. This road running off at a right angle to the previous road is paved even though my map has it as unpaved. The pastureland continues, though. And there is an enchanting early evening view on the right now, or to the east, of the conical Orsorno and another conical volcanic to the north of it against a mountain backdrop, beyond the green countryside.

The way is flat until a descent down into a gorge with forest on either side of the road climbing up the other side of a bridge over a river at the bottom. On the climb up there's a track up a cutting on the left, which I at once ride off upon, knowing this will most likely do. The track then ends level with a firebreak and the fence has loose strands of barbed wire, which I raise and push the bike underneath. There is a single-track trail through long grass further, along to rows of eucalyptus trees, level in between with a mulch of fallen leaves, ideal to sleep upon, so I set about pitching the tent.

It is now getting dark shortly after eight as I wait for water to boil. Tomorrow I should make it to the border with Argentina.

Today's ride: 93 km (58 miles)
Total: 7,245 km (4,499 miles)

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