Rain, Mud, Trains: All lots of fun, too

October 25, 2016

Yesterday's enquiries indicated I could catch the train to Pyay from the local station, thus avoiding the hectic ride to the Central Yangon Station. Well, it was a good plan...

Knowing where the station is on a map is one thing, actually finding it is another. I had to lassoo it in, riding a circle around it until I found the way in. So now it's 0945 and (having missed the earlier 0600 train - was never gonna make that one anyway) I'm waiting for the 1300 train to Pyay, which may or may not take my bike, depending on who I talk to.

From the time I arrived in Myanmar on the evening of the 20th til now, I've been hanging around Yangon being spoiled by the hospitality of Jeff Parry and his wife Soe Soe, the owners of Bikeworld Inn and cycle shop. It's not the cheapest place to stay in Yangon, but it has to be amongst the friendliest and best value in the city. Jeff is an expat Aussie who has been here for 30 years. His insights into the country, its economy, people and politics are entertaining and perceptive. Many NGO, UN staff, expats and journalists stop over here or drop in for pizza and conversation. You listen carefully and learn. And of course the international bike riders are always passing through.

The late night Friday night ride through Yangon. It starts from Bike World and winds through the city. About 50 riders showed up - lotta fun!!

Meet Grey, international cyclists stopping by at Bike World to get his bike serviced. He cycled down from India and crossed at Tamu, so that border crossing is open if you are coming from India - it's currently closed going the other way. They told him he had to exit the country from Tamu... He left via Myawaddy/Mae Sot.

23-10-2016

I was even lucky enough to be here for the premiere mountain bike race of the year. Two laps of a 27 km single track through the countryside north of Yangon. It was a free entry race sponsored by the sports ministry and Bike World. Locals and expats of all ages, from near and far entered. The bikes ranged from expensive bespoke mtn bikes to skinny tired wrecks of indeterminate origin. Some of the participants slept at the start, others biked the 40 km out of Yangon early in the morning and then cycled home after the finish. There were even a few women riders, very unusual for Myanmar.

We knew there was potential for rain during the event and about 30 minutes into the race the skies blackened ominously and it decended upon us in a torrent of near biblical proportions. The track instantly turned into a river of mud and sludge. Luckily I was riding on a borrowed full suspension mountain bike.

I slowly and carefully completed one lap and then retired. I know my limits and one lap was just right. It was my first experience of Mtn bike racing and it was a real hoot. It was the locals who made it so much fun; everyone laughing, singing and encouraging each other - I didn't see even one instance of anger or frustration and with all the rain, mud and crashing there was plenty of opportunity for it. Thankfully, there were no broken bones or serious injuries. The winner, a young Aussie expat from Melbourne married to a local girl, finished the race before I completed my one lap.

Ben the expat Aussie won the race. He just floated serenely above the muck and mire, finishing well ahead of the nearest competitor. He didn't even get dirty....

Everyone rinsed off most of the mud from their bikes and bodies at the temple well. It took me about 3 goes in the hot shower to get all the mud and sand out of all cracks and crevices!!

Time: 1048 - two hours to go

Time: 1230 -

The train reverses into the platform and the gates open and we all rush to find our seats. One of the train guards escorts me to my carrige. The other guards point to the bike and gear and wave me back to the guard van. They load the bike up and look at my ticket in dismay signing I have to pay a bicycle luggage fee. Yeah, didn't see how I got that far without paying. A conference is held, phone calls are made, there is something being said about foreigners and bicycles. It's eventually decided I get a special crazy tourist on a bike dispensation.

Time: 1300

We leave the station exactly on time.

Yangon station: you have to corral it in. The main bus station ticketing offices are directly opposite. You gotta take a train if you come here, it's not only about cycling you know.

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