To Sankt Johann im Pongau

September 15, 2021

Today my Alps adventure began in earnest.

I left Salzburg on another blue sky day – I love it when the predictions of rain are unconsummated. After wandering in circles for about fifteen minutes, I found the correct bike lane that took me over the Salzach and south along the Cidlovia Alpe Adria Radwag. The first ten miles to Hallein were easy riding on a tree-lined bike path that crisscrossed the river, with each crossing offering a preview of what’s to come. I was full of anticipation. After Hallein, the route wound up through the countryside, occasionally dipping back down to the river. There were a few ups and downs along the way to Golling, where I stopped for coffee and a snack.

Crossing the Salzach and saying good-by to Salzburg

Near Kulch - didn't cross the river here, but Vivien George was feeling left out

Shortly after Golling, I left the small roads for the larger Route 159 that would take me over Lueg Pass. When I saw “Pass”, I turned on my rear light and girded my loins for my first Alpine climbing test. I was happy to see a nice shoulder and very little traffic, as most vehicles were on the adjacent A10 highway. The fairly steady climb got my heart thumping, but overall it was not too difficult and I was feeling pretty pleased with myself when I crested the top. The next challenge was the climb to Hohenwerfen Castle, which provided a nice photo-op and a chance to catch my breath. Then it was all downhill to the lovely town of Werfen, The castle as well as the Werfen are featured in the Do-Re-Mi scenes from the Sound of Music, a favorite childhood movie. I knew there were Sound of Music tours in Salzburg, but I had no clue that I would unwittingly pass through Do-Re-Mi land – good thing, or it could have been an ear worm for my entire time in Austria!

Most of the traffic is on the A10, which you might see if you ignore the mountain peaks and look closely near the bottom of the picture

Passing through the market town of Werfen

Crossing the Salzach at Pfarrwerfen, I stopped to look back and reflect on where I’d just been – an inspiring view downriver with the towering Tennenbirge to the east. The temperature was cooling during the final easy miles to Sankt Johann Im Pongau and I was glad to arrive at my small, family-run inn. I opted for half-board and was treated to nice home-style meal of bouillon, salad, and a turkey and vegetable dish that seemed somewhat like a pot pie, but without the pie crust. Nothing fancy, no foam, but just the kind of comfort food I needed to cap my first day in the Alps.

From the looks of it, I must be on an alpine meadow learning how to sing

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Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 190 miles (306 km)

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Rachael AndersonGreat photos and congratulations on doing so well on the climb! It looks like there was a very steep part, was it a tunnel?
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3 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rachael AndersonNo tunnels on this section - that’s the next day. The first big peak is Leug Pass and the second one is up to the castle. They’re hard but aren’t as bad as they look here
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3 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Susan CarpenterRide with gps shows a 20.8 percent grade at 21.2 miles into your ride which is just after the start of the first big climb. What was it really like? I’ve been having breathing problems.
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3 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rachael AndersonMy RWGPS has been reporting some obscene gradients. The first nit is very steep, but I managed to make it to a little pull out area just around the bend. I was there for a while catching my breath. After that it is not bad, even the climb to the castle, which looks as steep was much leads strenuous.
You’ll do great!!
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3 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Susan CarpenterThat’s encouraging! Thanks for the quick reply!
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3 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rachael AndersonRachael - ignore some of the previous reply - I had the wrong day
The first peak is Lueg Pass and it was very doable
Maybe we should switch to email? You can get my address from Scott
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3 years ago