October 3, 2021
To Modena
After three wonderful days in Bologna, it was time to head north, back to Munich. Things did not get off to an auspicious beginning – my first day back on the road was one of poor decisions and small joys.
The first poor decision was the route I chose leaving Bologna. Of the many options available, I chose the industrial route – almost seventeen miles along busy arteries of commerce and light industry. There was an occasional bike lane, but most of the time was spent rolling along with the light Sunday morning traffic. At least I was making pretty good time!
I eventually left the industrial zone and enjoyed a quiet ride along a small river and through orchards and farmland.
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I’d not gone many miles when I made my second bad decision of the day, one which concerned food. I should be better at making sure that I’m well-provisioned when I set out each morning, but this was not one of those days. I had some fruit and a pastry in Plumazzo and thought that would hold me until I reached Modena – not so. I was still hungry when, less than five miles later, I came upon an outdoor food kiosk alongside the bike path, just past Spilamberto. I’m not sure what attracted me - the tented picnic tables, the sound of laughter, or all the bikes parked along the fence – in any case I stopped and stood in line while trying to figure out what food options were on offer. I chose a coke and a slice of pizza. Wrong choice – the barely warmed slice was just a thick slab bread topped with a smattering of cheese, olives, and a few dried tomatoes. I ate the toppings, left most of the bread and departed feeling both bloated and a litte queasy.
Then things got better. Alongside the trail was the most amazing small village – Spilamberto in miniature - complete with churches, houses, streets, as well as the river with accompanying bridge. I was enchanted.
The remaining twenty miles to Modena were on a well-paved bike path that took me into the old part of the city. I arrived at my small hotel a little past three, put Vivien George in the garage next door, and spent the afternoon trying to formulate a plan for the trip back to Munich. I didn’t get out to see the town until almost seven, a little late for this time of year. I found my way to Osteria Francescana, ranked in the top ten of the world’s best restaurants. I thought maybe one day, if I’m lucky enough to secure a reservation six months in advance! But for now, I enjoyed more modest regional fare at a restaurant recommended by the hotel. Not a bad choice after all.
Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 627 miles (1,009 km)
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