September 16, 2021
To Mallnitz
You wanted the challenge
Today I would ascend the “big climb” to the spa town of Bad Gastein and continue on to Mallnitz, a journey through the High Tauren Alps aided by tunnels, trains, and some strenuous pedaling on my part. I'd read other CycleBlaze tales of the climb and it seemed that Vivien George and I were in for one of our more challenging days – just what we wanted.
There was a good chance (100%) of rain today, with heavier rains in Bad Gastein predicted around noon. It was 25 miles to Bad Gastein, so I aimed for an earlier start and minimal dawdling. The first five miles were an easy roll on a bike path adjacent to the Salzach. After leaving the river at Sankt Viet, however, there was an unexpected steep uphill that marked the start of 1.5 mile climb averaging 7.5%. I was not expecting this. I had glossed over any mention of this part of the route, focusing mainly on the upcoming tunnels and the “big climb” to Bad Gastein. In fact, I was so surprised that I convinced myself that I had taken a wrong turn and missed the tunnels – this despite the fact that there were CAA and EV7 route signs all along the way. Once I cleared my head, I was able to enjoy the most beautiful stretch of the day – a small paved road winding up and down through small farms and lumber mills. The views of the surrounding valley were striking, even on this cloudy, drizzly day.
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I was still convinced that I had missed the tunnel when just past Klamm I was routed onto highway 167 and face to face with …you guessed it, the real tunnel! I guess I should have paid more attention to the day’s route details. Cycling through the tunnel was a breeze – a separate and protected bike lane, no oncoming bikes, and a tolerable (to me) noise level. There are actually three tunnels, two shared with motor traffic and a third just for bike lanes. After a brief stretch parallel to the highway, the route took me through the wonderful little town of Dorfgastein where I stopped for a strudel and a coffee.
Shortly after leaving Dorfgastein I ran into Helmut and Liesel, a delightful couple from Muenster Germany. I had spotted them yesterday near Werfen and we’d also exchanged pleasantries earlier today while catching our breath and de-layering after the first steep climb beyond Sankt Viet. As this was our third encounter, it seemed we were past due for proper introductions. They were inveterate bike tourers, having cycled/camped in Africa and all through South America. Their African tour was cut short by Covid – not because of travel restrictions but due to the unfriendly reception they got from suspicious Africans who blamed them for bringing Covid to Africa. On this trip, they were bound for Gorda, the terminus of the Alpe Adria, then reversing course and heading north back to their home in Muenster. We departed, promising to look out for each other over the next two days.
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The five miles to Bad Hofgastein consisted of a gradual increase in elevation punctuated by short up and downs that were not too taxing. There was quite a lot of noontime activity when I passed through Bad Hofgastein, after which the bumps got a little steeper and a little longer as we ascended the valley. The really steep climbs occurred during the final 1.5 miles to Bad Gastein. I was doing pretty well until I hit a short stretch over 17%, at which time I was starting to weave across the road. There was some traffic on the road, including a large tour bus or two, so I dismounted and pushed about 20 yards until finding a reasonable launching point for my next assault. I finally made it up to the town proper using a strategy that combined rest stops interspersed with bursts of ferocious pedaling and/or short stretches of pushing. Yoohoo! We made it!!
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The rain had started during my final push up to Bad Gastein. By the time we reached the waterfall, it had become fairly steady and the air chilly – conditions that precluded me from lingering. In addition, the town was full of tourists and construction. I took several requisite photos of the waterfall and the Belle Epoque hotels, and wished I’d had a sunnier day for my visit.
Cold and damp, I cycled up to the train station in Bockstein where I would catch the train that takes motor vehicles and bicycles through the Taueran Tunnel to Mallnitz. There was no attendant at either the station or the ticket kiosk, so I spent time discussing Alpine hiking and geopolitics with two young German fellows returning home after a hut-to-hut climb in the Alps. I also learned that the next train would not depart for another forty-five minutes. About 20 minutes before departure time, the now long line of cars at the ticket counter began moving and the train pulled into the station. I quickly headed over to the kiosk, but not before a large contingent of about twenty riders from a Norwegian cycle club rolled up. However, there was still room for Vivien George and me in the bike car. With ticket in hand, we queued up behind the Norwegians and just then Liesel and Helmut rolled up. After helping Vivien George onto the train car, the three of us plopped down on facing seats and spent the short train trip in deep conversation. We de-trained in Mallnitz and exchanged contact whilst they donned more cold weather gear. All of the cyclists save me were headed the eight kilometers downhill to Obervellach. Tired, damp and cold I was glad to be staying the night in Mallnitz, where I soon would have a hot shower and a warm meal. A fitting end to a challenging and very rewarding day.
Today's ride: 33 miles (53 km)
Total: 223 miles (359 km)
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The photos are not just just gorgeous, they evoke all of the senses.
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