September 23, 2021
To Longarone
The day was like a rustic sandwich, crusty and hard on the outside but delectable in the middle.
Today marked the start of my journey down out of the Dolomiti and onto the Venetian Plain. I was headed for Vicenza on my way to Bologna, but I’d not decided on the precise route. The near term goal was Longarone, a town on the Munich-Venice cycleway that was at the right distance and left me route options for the next couple of days.
It was a brisk, cool morning as I walked into town for some coffee and breakfast, with the moon setting over the sunlit face of the mountains. I spent a little time tidying up the Airbnb and Vivien George, but it was still a chill 45°F when I rolled out at 9:30. I must say that both Vivien George and Cortina d’Amprezzo looked much better in the morning sunlight.
I started out on the EI cycle route, Lunga Via delle Dolomiti, which would take me through the Cadore following the Boite River along an old railway line built in WWI. The E1 comprises a section of the Munich-Venice Route that I took from Dobbiaco to Cortina d’Amprezzo a few days ago. The paved section out of Cortina needed resurfacing, and then the fun really began. Following the E1 signs, I soon found myself “mountain biking” up and down steep grades with washouts, seriously look gravel, and big rocks – at times I was forced to walk due to poor traction and/or fear of getting a flat. I was missing my tubeless 44 mm tires that served me well on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route – in fact, this was worse. After one terrible stretch, I considered abandoning the E1 for the adjacent SS51 highway, but decided to give her one more chance. I had some second thoughts when I came encountered a rock slide area, but persevered. Guido had told me that rock slides are very common around Cortina, causing constant problems for road maintenance and, apparently, cycleways.
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My loyalty to the E1 route paid off as I was soon on a nicely paved path that took me through several wonderful little towns strung out like beads along a Cadore necklace – San Vito di Cadore, Borca di Cadore, Vodo di Cadore, Venas di Cadore, Valle di Cadore. Each town had an old train depot, and many had been spruced up and repurposed for modern times. It was beautiful day for cycling, warming but still on the cool side. The challenges of the morning were easily forgotten as I made my way down the valley toward Pieve di Cadore.
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Pieve di Cadore was not directly on my route but I’d heard great things about the town and decided it might be a nice place for lunch. It was a bit of a climb, but not too long and not too steep. To my surprise, the town appeared to be largely empty. There were only a handful of people strolling the Palazzo della Magnifica Comunità di Cadore and each ristorante I passed was fronted with empty tables and chairs and an owner standing at the door ready to welcome someone in. Granted it was chilly and the wind had picked up, but I definitely expected a more lively scene. I finally found what looked to be a promising choice for lunch and opted to dine outside where I could keep an eye on Vivien George. Though the wind picked up and the table I chose stayed shaded, I had great meal with just the right amount of pasta, capped with an espresso. I felt satisfied as I cruised down the hill and headed south, but still curious about Pieve di Cadore,
Just before it terminates at Calalzo di Cadore, the E1 cyclepath connects with the I4 cycle route that heads south toward Venice and Belluno. Here, the route follows the Piave River along a series of wide, nicely paved, two lane roads that parallel the larger SS51 highway. Due to the close proximity of SS51, there is virtually NO traffic, allowing one to fly down the hill as the road twists and turns on its way down the valley. I am not one to “fly down the hill” and so was a bit nervous as the descent began, unsure of traffic and the increasing winds. Soon however, I relaxed a bit and by the time I reached the bottom was downright giddy.
I had about two miles to get to my lodging for the night, an Auberge and Ristoranti that had been run by the same family for generations. I passed a sign that read Termine di Cadore, and suddenly I was routed onto SS51. I think the normal route might have short stretch on SS51 before the I4 cycleway resumes on a dedicated bike path. Today, however, they are widening the road, blocking (or destroying?) the bike path, and diverting all traffic into a narrow single lane that continued through Longarone. I found it a bit harrowing, and at one point I was forced off onto the side of the road by a very large truck honking at me.
It was with a great sigh of relief that I found my Auberge, a modest place but good for the price – and they served dinner. A great plus and I would not have to walk on the "harrowing road." I enjoyed a hearty meal of bean soup, beef fillet, and salad with many men who, from their high viz garb, may have been part of the construction crew I’d passed earlier that day. I finally got the WiFi password at dinner and spent most of the evening considering my route options - ones that might avoid road construction and disappearing cycle routes.
In all, it had been an exciting day, filled with highs and lows – not unlike many days of a touring cyclists.
Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 371 miles (597 km)
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