Bolzano

October 6, 2021 to October 7, 2021

The tour thus far has been a real joy, and I’ve loved the extra days spent in Venice and Bologna. However, I need to get a move on if I’m to get back to Munich in time to pack up Vivien George and make my return flight to Paris on the 15th. Rain is predicted for the next day or two, so I’ve decided to make life easier by taking the train from Verona to Bolzano, where I’d hoped spend two or three nights.

One of the great things in Europe is the ready availability of trains for last minute changes in touring plans. However, train travel usually involves stairs – getting to/from the platform, getting on/off the train. I am not strong enough to carry a loaded Vivien George up and down stairs, and I’m always a bit anxious as to how I will manage it all. Therefore, I arrived at the Verona train station more than an hour early for my 12:06 train to Bolzano. Surprisingly, the track number for my train was already posted, Binario 1, so I found the lift (yeah – a lift!) and headed up to the platform to await my train.

This time my anxiety got the better of me. It turns out Scott and Rachael Anderson were also at the Verona train station on their way from Trento to Crema – arriving in Verone around 11 for their 12:30 departure. We’d previously thought we might be able to connect on their way south and my way north, but things did not work out - how bizzare and ironic would it have been to bump into them unexpectedly at the Verona station! Well, that did not happen - my train arrived, and all went smoothly to Bolzano.

Arriving at the Verona train station on a cloudy, windy day

I had not decided what to do on my day off in Bolzano. I had originally thought to have two free days, one for biking up and back to Chiusa, and one day for exploring the city. Now, I was left with a choice between the two - and I opted for the city. Guido, my guide on Tre Cime de Lavaredo, is from Bolzano and he had given me three recommendation for my time there: take a hike to the earth pyramids in nearby Renon; have dinner at Vogele; and DEFINITELY have a gelato at Avalon, in his opinion one of the best in Italy and perhaps the world.

Earth pyramids, or Erdypyramiden/Pyramidi di Terra, are similar to hoodoos but, as I understand, are formed from clay rather than rock. They can be found at several locations near Renon, but the pyramids at Longomoso are easily accessible by marked signs, paved trails and a viewing platform. To get there, you must take the tram from Bolzano to Renon, then a narrow guage train from Renon to Collalbo, and then follow the signs.

After checking in with Tourist Information to verify Guido’s instructions, I was on my way to the tram station, albeit with some trepidation given my fear of heights. However, I cast worry aside and headed up the hill – with eyes shut and a firm grip on the railing.

I arrived in Renon about 20 minutes before the next train, milling about with the other pyramid goers. A fifteen minute ride took us Collabo, where signs were posted for various routes to places of interest. It seemed, however, that most everyone was headed down Route 24, to the pyramids. It was a pleasant, easy walk that took us through town and along paths, offering several nice vantage points of the surrounding peaks and valley.

I managed a couple of photos from the tram before I went into Zen mode. I was surprised at how big Bolzano is.

There are clearly marked signs pointing the way to the Erdypyramiden/Pyramidi di Terra - or you can just follow the crowds

Along the way to the Erdypyramiden/Pyramidi di Terra

The pyramids themselves were a cluster of clay spires, most topped with a boulder, that rose out of a clearing in the trees. They were visible at several points along the way, and there was a formal viewing platform – the closest we would get. I found them to be quite interesting, but a bit less dramatic than I envisioned – certainly nothing like the photos I’ve seen of the hoodoos at Bryce Canyon. After the platform, the trail turned to dirt and became far less crowded. I continued on to the small enclave of Maria Saal where I stopped for some hot soup and a coffee. Then it was back to the train and tram and Bolzano.

The boulders atop the pillars are key for its formation and continue to protect the pillar – once the boulder falls off, the pillar typically erodes

The Erdypyramiden/Pyramidi di Terra and the surrounding countryside

A nice spot for a hot bowl of soup on a chilly day

The train was at the station when I got back to town

It sort of looks like a giant triceratops is lurking about, getting ready to attack the small village

The next stop was Avalon, home of Guido’s favorite gelato. The shop was located about two km from the tram station, across the Adige River. I figured a good walk was the perfect prelude to gelato. Given Guido’s ravings about it being “perhaps the best it the world”, I was surprised to find a rather nondescript storefront with a couple of chairs outside. On entering, it was clear that they took gelato making seriously, with exotic flavors sourced from around the world. I chose two standards, Pistachio and Stracciatella, and two chocolates – a dark Brazilian and a more aromatic, smoother Peruvian. The chocolates were unbelievable, with each bite revealing richer and deeper flavor. It was a walk well rewarded.

I returned to the hotel through the older section of Bolzano, getting more of a feel for the city. It definitely has a German vibe, much more so than the other towns and cities I visited in the Dolomite region. I stopped to check-out the restaurant recommended by Guido, but decided to pass – it was too early for dinner and I didn't want to make the trip back later. Instead, I opted to eat at the lauded restaurant at the hotel – it was good, but not remarkable.

A final note – I’d been debating whether to return to Munich via Brenner Pass or over Reschen Pass along the Via Claudia Augustus. Among those I asked it was unamious: Reschen Pass, for the beautiful scenery. So tomorrow I head west for Merano and the Vinschgau.

Today's ride: 2 miles (3 km)
Total: 732 miles (1,178 km)

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Scott AndersonGood luck on the weather! I’d love to bike Reschen Pass.
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3 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Scott AndersonThanks Scott - so far it's been brilliant sunshine but cold, six-layers cold!
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3 years ago

Jacquie GaudetI can't carry my loaded bike either, though maybe with my new, lighter bike and only two panniers it *might* be possible. In ant case, at train stations by myself I usually pop off the panniers and make two trips: one with the bags and one with the bike. More often than not, someone will volunteer to help.
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3 years ago

Tricia GrahamThe Reschen Pass and The Via Claudia are amazing
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3 years ago

Susan CarpenterTo Jacquie GaudetHi Jacquie - one of the reasons I got. Ti bike was to make it easier for train travel. I can manage much better than with my old steel bike, especially when I have to hoist it up on the hooks. But I still need 2 trips to go up and down those long stairs between platforms. Or a friendly volunteer
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3 years ago