To Watkins Glen

July 16, 2021

A short post today, for surprisingly one of the less interesting rides of the tour. It’s one of the shorter ones too, and another of those days with zero navigational challenge - 37 miles, spent in its entirety biking south on Route 14 along the western shore of Seneca Lake. Once we leave downtown Geneva we don’t have a navigational instruction or change in direction until arriving at our motel in Watkins Glen at the opposite end of the lake.

On a day that figures to top out at 90 degrees, the hottest we’ve seen in two weeks, we have conflicting interests as we consider how soon to start cycling. One: we’d rather get an early start and put our miles in before it gets too hot and humid. As it is it’s already in the low 70’s when we wake up before 6. Two: we’re in a comfortable, spacious room here in Geneva, and can’t check in at our motel at the other end until mid-afternoon. With only 37 miles to cover, we don’t want to leave too early and have a long, hot afternoon to kill time in at the end.

We get started about 8:30, which will prove to be just about right. It will bring us to Watkins Glen just after noon - a respectable time to sit down for lunch in a pleasant, air conditioned restaurant and chill until we can check in to our room at 1:30.

Leaving Geneva on Route 14. The entire ride will be on this road and look pretty much like this. A fairly busy highway with the occasional large truck, but a broad, comforting shoulder the entire way.

The only time I’ve seen a barn with multiple quilt patterns, but then this is a commercial establishment too.

As we progress south, we move past the residential estates and their huge lawns to the wine route with its vast vineyards spilling down to the lake.

Same old road. It’s changed some though - it’s getting up near 90 and starting to feel like we’re biking through a sauna. The headwind helps, but not enough. Some shade from an occasional roadside tree would help too, but we don’t remember seeing a single one since leaving Geneva.

A bit north of Watkins Glen. This would be a better ride when it was cooler of course, but also more scenic later in the day with the sun low in the sky and behind us.

Video sound track: Black Frost, by Grover Washington Jr.

It felt OK to come in out of the sun, eat a meal, and down about a gallon of ice water. Also an IPA went down well, for those concerned that I’m not getting sufficient hops into my step. In spite of the glass, this is an American IPA by Seneca Lake Brewery. We passed this brewery overlooking the lake about ten miles back.

Watkins Glen is best known for its famous state park. Its entrance is only two blocks from our motel and the most dramatic sights are in its first mile or two, so it will be an easy outing from our room. Last night and this morning we discussed the idea of hiking through it this afternoon and taking a bike ride tomorrow, but now rhat we’ve arrived that feels out of the question. Leaving the restaurant feels like we’re stepping into a blast furnace, and beyond that the town is crazy with traffic and tourists. We’ll save the park for tomorrow morning when it’s cool and hopefully quieter and enjoy an overdue day off the bikes.

In the Watkins Inn. Our room is quite small and the bikes would never work inside, but our host agrees that we can leave them in the hallway out the door. We’re doing well on this front - that crummy motel back in Fish Creek is still the only place that refused to let us bring them inside.

We have no trouble filling up the rest of the afternoon. Rachael braves the heat and heroically goes to the store to get breakfast and lunch ingredients for the next few days, and then we pretty much just loaf and stay around the air conditioner for the rest of the day. My big outing for the afternoon is to step just around the corner to Kookalaroc’s Bar & Grill to catch up on the blog over a second Seneca Falls IPA. I feel righteous about this, supporting the local industry.

A two seater, Kookalaroc’s Bar & Grill. Some rust remover, a couple of Brooks saddles and an e-assist and it could be just the thing.

Early generation disc brakes, and an impressive headlight - solar powered, I imagine.

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Ride stats today: 37 miles, 1,300’; for the tour: 1,793 miles, 49,300’

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 1,793 miles (2,886 km)

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Rich FrasierWatkins Glen State Park? To me, Watkins Glen is famous for the race track. Several US grands prix were held there back in the glory days of Formula 1. I’ll have to look up the park and check it out!
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Rich FrasierWell, OK. I’m not a car guy so I didn’t know. It does look like Watkins Glen is famous for more than its amazing park.
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3 years ago

BettyLou KoffelI had to return to this section because I went to college nearby. I’ve driven this section of 14 many times during my travels to and from Keuka College.
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3 years ago