We went to bed last night thinking we’d be waiting around this morning for the rains to pass, so it is a pleasant surprise to wake up this morning and find that the day has already dried out and is expected to stay that way. Not that it gets us out the door any earlier. It’s nearly eleven before we finally hit the road.
Today’s ride is the logical opposite of yesterday’s. Again it’s really two rides - half of it on a quiet road following Otter Creek upriver still, and the remainder on busy highway 7. Today though we have dessert first and start out with a perfectly delightful ride south out of town on beautiful Creek Road. Very scenic, and the road has the best concentration of fine old barns I remember seeing. Creek Road is to barns as Otter Creek Gorge is to mushrooms, I guess.
The view east. We’re following Otter Creek south again today toward its headwaters, as we did all day yesterday.
Our first miles today are on Creek Road. Not the most creative name, but it’s a wonderful ride with lots to see - this wonderful barn and silo, for one example.
Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnI’m sure. I especially liked the wooden chute for the grain loader. I don’t remember seeing one like this before. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
We were surprised when the pavement ended on Creek Road, but we decided to continue on a few miles more rather than returning to the highway just yet. It was the right decision.
Actually, the pavement hasn’t quite ended - it’s just distressed and deformed but still a reasonable ride. Pressed between low outcrops and the swollen creek, this was some of the best riding of the day.
The fun ends in Wallingford, when Creek Road ends and we return to Route 7. We’ll be on this road for the rest of the ride, sometimes with a good shoulder, at other times not; but always with just enough traffic that you can’t ever fully let your guard down and enjoy the surroundings. Which is a shame, because the surroundings are increasingly spectacular as we ride south, the valley narrowing and steepening as we come to the end (well, the beginning actually) of Otter Creek, cross through a gap, and drop steeply into Manchester.
It was a good time to have the video going so we can go back and be reminded of how pretty this road is.
Maybe not the best barn of the day, but the Glitter Barn does have a certain appeal.
Video sound track: Swift Breeze, by Yasmin Williams
Well, to the outskirts of Manchester anyway. We won’t actually get to see town today, which is sprawled out for a few miles along the highway. We’re staying at its northernmost outskirts, at a motel that neither of us cares for too much. It’s cramped, the WiFi is too slow, just the usual whiny gripes that a couple of very spoiled cycling vagabonds are too prone to.
The place does endear itself to me in one way though. The office sells beer, and I enjoy the next hour sitting out front of our room on a chair in the shade, sipping at a Fiddlehead IPA and filtering through the day’s photos. A couple of hours and a brief nap later, Team Anderson walks down the road a half mile to show up for their reservation at Ye Olde Tavern, a place with a much more interesting and appealing menu than you’d expect from its humble name.
Ye Olde Tavern, our restaurant for the night, has a deep history. It was built in 1790, when Vermont was still an independent republic.
Very nice. Chicken breast glazed with Vermont-cider and cranberries; and horse radish crusted Atlantic salmon with dill and Dijon mustard vinaigrette. I guess we could have also shown you the cranberry fritters with maple butter, which were amazing; or the also good cranberry apple crisp a la mode.
Ride stats today: 34 miles, 1,200’; for the tour: 2,403 miles, 74,800’
Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km) Total: 2,403 miles (3,867 km)
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Kathleen JonesRight after college I moved to Manchester to work as a ski bum for my aunt and uncle in their ski lodge up Rte 30 east of town. After the season I got a couple of low-paying jobs in town and moved to a room in the house across the street from Palmer House Hotel, which is down the road from your motel, and which backs up to the tavern. The Palmer House folks used to also own the tavern. I lived there for 2 years, then moved north for a couple of years, then out to California in 1980. Didn’t think I’d last more than a year before moving back to Vermont. Well …. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Kathleen JonesWe walked past the Palmer House of course on the way to dinner. Great to hear of your history here, and glad we happened into your part of town. I’ve been looking at those hills rising straight up on both sides, thinking this must be a great skiing area. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Bob DistelbergFirst of all, Fiddlehead. Good choice. Second, and I realize this may not work out timing-wise, but Northshire Books is kinda cool. Hopefully you're getting off Route 7 soon. 7A perhaps? Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bob DistelbergFirst, agreed. Second, I think we saw the bookstore on our way through Manchester and it did look cool from the outside - but not cool enough to warrant a stop first thing. Third, yes - we stayed off of 7 south of Manchester except for a few spots north of Williamsburg - but you’ll hear of that soon enough. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Kathleen JonesTo Scott AndersonGreat hills around there, yes. The more distinctive mountain you probably saw from your motel, to the north, is Mt Aeolus, but the locals call it Mother Myrick. Little ol’ Owls Head was on her flanks. Then as you went south there was Equinox Mountain. Great place to hang out. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
