To Ludington

June 20, 2021

Transitions, transitions, transitions

We’ve known for a long time now that we’d be entering a new state today, because I booked passage on the Badger back on June 1st. I would have made it considerably earlier when we made our room reservations, but they weren’t accepting reservations before then.

We didn’t realize until over breakfast that we’re entering a new season, and that today is summer solstice.

And we didn’t realize until we were in the middle of Lake Michigan that we were also entering a new time zone: Wisconsin is on central, and most of Michigan is on eastern. We discovered this looking at our devices and seeing they were an hour apart. Our phone had cell coverage so it had advanced to the new time, but our iPads did not so they were still operating on old information.

As long as we’re on the subject, we’re also transitioning into a new phase of the tour. Mentally I’ve chunked it up into roughly equal thirds: Minnesota & Wisconsin; Michigan and Lake Erie; and New York and New England. Here’s an preview of what’s ahead in the coming three weeks:

The Badger

This could be the closest to a real rest day that we take on this tour. By day’s end we’ll credit ourselves with ten miles, all of them flat and cinchy: 7 miles from Two Rivers to the ferry terminal in Manitowoc; a mile from the Ludington terminal to our motel there; and a three mile round trip to the grocery store after we checked in to pick up a light dinner to eat back in the room (premise tuna sandwiches, chips, beer). Unless we get totally rained out somewhere along the way this is probably the last day we’ll sit out until we reach the east coast.

The Badger departs at 2, Central Time; and after a four hour crossing arrives in Ludington at 7, Eastern Time. It’s a bit awkward for planning a dinner around, so we decide to make lunch our main meal. We check out of our motel a bit before eleven, and a half hour later arrive at the Courthouse Pub to claim the outside table we had reserved. Conditions are very pleasant for an outdoor meal, and we enjoy several brief encounters around the edges of it: a chat with the couple seated at the neighboring table, who are long time residents from Two Rivers; a photogenic family of five who stop by and ask if I’ll take their group photo for them; and then three very fit looking female cyclists bike up - racers from Fort Worth who are up to participate in a criterium and enjoy the refreshingly cool temperatures up here. After we finish our mains we find that we still have time and capacity so we foolishly each order a slice of cheesecake and bike away groaning from the indulgence.

One last time down the Mariner’s Trail. Look how calm the water is today! We should have a smooth crossing.

We each ordered the same thing for a change: Panko dusted chicken breasts topped with brie cheese and a raspberry balsamic glaze. With green onions and served over lemon and herb rice.

I asked Rachael to step out of the frame so you could fully appreciate my Dark Justice, an American IPA; but she just couldn’t resist photobombing it.

We feel somewhat guilty or sheepish about giving business to a coal powered vessel in this day and age, but it’s in the right location for our itinerary; and it does feel like a historical passage, a page from an era passed long ago. It’s amazing to think that at one time there were 14 car ferries crossing the lake from Ludington. I’d be interested in seeing a map of those old crossings, if anyone knows of one.

It’s an interesting experience just boarding. We arrive at one, an hour before departure, as we had been advised to. We’re surprised to see a long line of foot passengers already, with the lot filled with cars awaiting loading. There are two lines - one just for motorcycles and those needing special assistance. Everyone else goes in the foot passenger queue - including everyone arriving by automobile. In a model I’ve never seen used before, the motor vehicles are all driven on by Badger staff - most of them fit young men who spend the next 45 minutes driving a vehicle on the long ship and then sprinting back to take on the next vehicle in line. It makes for a lengthy loading process, but they must have their reasons.

There’s a grill-style bike rack for bicycles tucked under a stairwell that holds maybe eight bikes. I’m concerned about ours - Bike Fridays with their small wheels and disc brakes don’t really seat very well in racks like this. I’m afraid they’ll fall over once the ship starts rolling on the open water, so we get them wedged as securely as we can against the base of the stairwell where they have some support. I’m also surprised that there’s no provision for strapping them down. I wonder how often bikes topple during rough crossings.

We don’t have one of those though. It’s very calm today, and as we’re queued up waiting to leave the ship I overhear a frequent crosser state that she’s never experienced such a smooth passage.

It’s overcast and very lightly misting when we arrive in Ludington. This is a relief, because earlier in the day rain was in the forecast. We had our wet weather gear handy for the mile ride to our motel, but it’s not needed. It just starts sprinkling when we arrive, and when we leave soon after to bike to the grocery it almost qualifies as rain; but it’s not really an issue. Compared to the uncomfortably hot days in the recent past it feels refreshing.

I don’t remember ever seeing this before. You don’t drive your own car onto the ship, but instead turn it over to a valet and pick it up at the other end.

Good physical fitness is a requirement for being one of the drivers. After driving a car or truck onto the ship you have to hustle back for the next one in line.

You also need decent driving skills for this job. How would you like backing this monster onto the ship?

Finally, about a half an hour after we arrive, the passenger line starts advancing.

Leaving Manitowoc. The black mountain in the middle is a pile of coal to fuel the ship.

Leaving Manitowoc Harbor. I like how this photo has an old fashioned, almost sepia tone.

Hundreds of gulls soared and kited in our wake as we left the harbor.

It’s a huge ship, with plenty of options for how to pass the time. You could sit on deck and breathe in the sooty coal exhaust.

Or you could hunker down on deck at the bow of the ship and brave the elements.

Or you could indulge yourself in a thrilling round of Badger Bingo.

Three and a half hours after departure the eastern shore comes into view.

Today's ride: 10 miles (16 km)
Total: 844 miles (1,358 km)

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James FitchHere's a map of RR car ferries 1892-1982: https://www.behance.net/gallery/21327443/Ann-Arbor-Railroad-Car-Ferries-(1892-1982)-Part-1.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo James FitchThanks for finding this, James. Such an interesting map, and hints at how important many of these lakeside towns must have been back then.
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3 years ago