To Kalamazoo

June 25, 2021

About the weather

Looking at the hellacious heatwave horror unfolding out west, we have no right to complain at all about our little weather situation here in the Midwest. So we’re not complaining.

We do have preferences though, and all things considered we wish the forecast in Kalamazoo and almost everywhere else in the Great Lakes region didn’t look like this today, and for most of the next two weeks solid:

We spent last night exhaustively gaming out alternatives for what to do in the coming days. For today specifically, the 54 mile ride to Kalamazoo (which locals apparently call Kzoo, so we will too) sounds pretty awful. The weather report image above is for tomorrow, not today. Today’s looks even worse, with stronger winds and periods listed as heavy rains. We’ve seen heavy rains as recently as yesterday afternoon and suddenly we’re believers.

Amtrak services Kzoo, so we consider biking just fifteen miles south to South Haven or back north to Holland where there are Amtrak stations. They’re not on the same line though. To get to Kzoo from South Haven is an 11 hour ride, because you have to journey back southwest to Chicago on the Pere Marquette line, wait there for about 8 hours, and then catch the Wolverine to Kzoo. And besides, there’s only one train through South Hampton daily, and it leaves at 6:30 AM. With dawn at 6, we couldn’t catch that train even if we wanted to.

At this point, the idea of getting a long stay visa for France somehow enters the conversation again. Compared to France’s wonderful rail network, ours is a pathetic embarrassment.

We also consider breaking the ride to Kzoo into two days and stopping tonight at the budget motel in Allegan at roughly its midpoint. Two 25 mile rides would be much easier to window into whatever breaks in the weather come along, and we have some flexibility from our planned two day stay in Kzoo. We could drop the first day and stay in exciting Allegan for one night, trading one long, horribly wet ride for two shorter wet rides.

In the end though, we remember that we sold our home partly so we’d have more financial flexibility; and that part of our responsibility as tourists is to support the local economy. We call the Douglas/Saugutuck Cab company, and an hour later a van shows up at our door. For the next hour we watch the rain beat on the windshield and enjoy an interesting conversation with our female driver, a retired nursing home worker who likes to hike and camp at the state parks.

We arrive at our hotel in downtown Kzoo at about 11:30, and they let us right in. Rachael immediately heads off to the grocery, and I proceed to book us onto the Sunday afternoon Amtrak run to Ann Arbor. Later she heads down to the workout room to generate some perspiration, and I don’t. We’ll stay two nights here and three in Ann Arbor, and hope that conditions improve in the next five days.

And then, we settle in at our comfortable new digs and listen to the rain beat on the window.

In Kalamazoo

It rains all afternoon. Finally about five it eases up so we walk a half mile to the restaurant we picked out for this evening. Three blocks from the hotel it starts raining harder, and Rachael’s skirt is soaked through by the time we reach the restaurant. Unpleasant, but it does reinforce the wisdom of our decision to call a cab this morning.

After dinner though, there’s a break in the weather that lasts for several hours. We enjoy a leisurely stroll back through the cultural heart of town, enchanted by its parks, historical buildings and public art work. We’re especially taken by the Bronson Park Historic District, on the National Register since 1993. At the center is artistic Bronson Park, with its colorful gardens, sculptures, and topiaries. Especially impressive is the beautiful Ladies Library Association Building, the first building in the country to be owned by a women’s association.

So much more interesting than a night in Allegan, I’m sure. We’ve done the right thing today.

The backside of Bell’s Brewery colorfully reflects current conditions. I’ve been enjoying their Two Hearted Ale of late.

On the Kzoo Mall, on the hunt for tomorrow night’s meal.

Found! They have exactly one reservation left for tomorrow at 5. We quickly take it before someone else muscles in.

In the Bronson Park Historic District, the cultural heart of the city.

The public library, catty-corner from Bronson Park.

Rainbow crosswalks lead to Bronson Park, possibly making a values statement.

Bronson Park is girded by impressive civic, religious and other buildings. I don’t know what this one is - I just liked the ivy.

The Park Club, “Downtown Kalamazoo’s premier private dining club since 1904”.

Giraffe and vagabond cyclist, Bronson Park.

Michigan’s squirrels seem to come in many colors. I’m not sure if this is a red squirrel or an eastern fox squirrel.

A red door, Saint Luke’s Episcopal Church.

Mystery flower #1. No mystery to many, I’m sure.

The Ladies Library Association Building, built in 1879 to house the Ladies Library Association of Kalamazoo.

The Women’s Library Association Building.

The Ladies Library Association was established in 1852. It was the first women’s club organized in Michigan, and only the third in the United States.

In front of the Institute of Arts stands the sculpture People (1974), by Kirk Newman.

The Kalamazoo House, a luxury Victorian B&B.

In Bronson Park: the sculpture When Justice and Mercy Prevail, Children May Safely Play (1976), by Kirk Newman.

Arcadia Creek. This reminds me for some reason of the Robine Canal running through the center of Narbonne, which for some reason has been on our minds lately.

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Kathleen JonesGlad you remembered what your money is for. Well done.

I’ve been to Kzoo a bunch since I have in-laws in the area. It’s a great little city.
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3 years ago

Gregory GarceauAhhh, Kalamazoo! As soon as I saw your title for today's post, I was hoping you'd find Bell's Brewery which is one of the finest in the Mid-West, in my opinion. We had their Two Hearted Ale at the Lock & Dam Eatery here in Hastings. (I probably shouldn't have that last one.) I shouldn't be surprised that you did, indeed, find it.

About 35 years ago, The Feeshko and I spent a night in Kalamazoo. We had been doing an all-day and all-night drive to Frankenmuth, Michigan where I was to be the best man for my college best friend's wedding. When I couldn't keep my eyes open anymore, we pulled over to the parking lot in front of a diner at 4:00 a.m. and slept in our Plymouth Horizon. Perhaps you saw that diner?
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Gregory GarceauWe might well have seen that diner, but I can’t be sure. Do you remember what they had on the menu?
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3 years ago

Gregory GarceauTo Scott AndersonYes, I believe they had pancakes, fried eggs and your choice of ham, sausage, or bacon.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Gregory GarceauThat’s it then! Had to have been the same place.
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3 years ago

Keith KleinHi,
I remember the hoops we had to jump through to get long stay visas for France and I decided to check with some more “recent” arrivals to see if they were still the same. From what I can gather, they are. If you really want to do it (and who wouldn’t?) then it would be a good idea to get started on the process now. At a minimum you will need to find health insurance and be able to provide proof of having it (in French) before you come as well as proof of COVID vaccination (might be able to use an English language document, but check). You will also need proof of financial resources and an address in France for your stay, although this last probably can be finessed to account for your proposed travels. You need to know that any long term visa is only good for the issuing country. Otherwise regular Schengen rules apply (90 days in any 180 day period). Hopefully the paperwork has been reduced. When we came in 2001 we needed eight copies, filled in by hand, no errors, no photocopies!
This could change, of course, but I’d not tarry getting started. Bureaucracy is a French word, after all!
Bonne chance!
Cheers,
Keith
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonThat’s about as I’ve understood it also. It’s hard to think about - is it worth taking on the overhead and complexity if we aren’t planning to renew afterwards and actually resettle? It does make for interesting dinner discussions on a quiet night though.
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3 years ago

Kathleen JonesWhat’s the name of the place you stayed in Kzoo? We are looking for lodging there for August or September. Not cycling, alas.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Kathleen JonesI forget why now, but we splurged and stayed in the Hilton, right across the street from the train station.
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3 years ago

Kathleen JonesAh yes. I know it. Thanks.

You probably splurged because you were in the habit of throwing money around that day. And why not.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Kathleen JonesThanks for reminding me what a speedy day that was. No regrets though - it was a great stay, and the taxi ride was totally worth it.
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3 years ago