Taughannock and Lucifer Falls

July 19, 2021

Taughannock Falls

Taughannock Falls is the longest single drop waterfall east of the Rocky Mountains. It’s only about twelve miles north of Ithaca, mostly on an easy, pleasant ride through the woods on the Black Diamond Trail. It’s a dry, pleasant morning. Seems like we should go.

On the way out of town we pass by Cayuga Ski & Cyclery, giving me a chance to correct an omission from two days ago when I failed to take a photo of the fine bike shop that took our bikes in for servicing on the spot.

Cayuga Ski & Cyclery. If we lived in Ithaca, which might be a good thing worth considering, this would be our LBS.

I was a little skeptical when Rachael proposed that we ride the Black Diamond Trail out to the falls because it’s unpaved. 10 miles of unpaved road aren’t exactly her thing, but if it isn’t working out we can always leave it along the way for a side road. It’s fine though. It’s a very smooth, easily rideable crushed rock surface that climbs so imperceptibly that it feels like a flat ride. And it’s beautiful, a quiet ride through the woods that’s broken in about a dozen places by streams and small cascades spilling down from the hills to the left.

Camera check before starting out on the Black Diamond Trail.

A smooth, pleasant ride on the Black Diamond Trail. I’ll bet it’s a fine place to ski in the winter too.

Small cascades and streams add texture to the beautiful ride.

The Black Diamond Trail ends at Taughannock Creek, above the waterfall. We leave it about a mile before then though to drop down Gorge Road to Cayuga Lake and the main entrance to Taughannock State Park. We lock up the bikes and walk the Gorge Trail roughly a mile to the base of the falls. It’s a very easy walk. The trail is broad, flat, smooth, and would be easily rideable if biking was permitted. I imagine they’re banned because the crowds can get large, although this early on a weekday there are few people about yet.

The walk is very pleasant. The creek is always beside you on the right, and as you walk the cliffs gradually rise on either side of the narrow canyon, eventually to a height of about 400 feet.

The Lower or Little Falls, a modest cascade right at the start of the walk.

The creek bed has become potholed as puddles of slightly acidic rain eat away at the limestone layer.

The cliffs rise to ever more impressive heights as you walk further into the gorge.

The primary fall is visually stunning when it comes into sight. With its sheer drop of 215 feet, it’s well higher than Niagara Falls. You aren’t permitted to get too close to the falls for safety reasons, because blocks of rock break off often enough to be a real threat as the falls steadily eat away at the cliffs and deepen the gorge.

And even if you could get closer you wouldn’t want to because of the dense spray erupting from the base. You can’t really get a decent photo from too close up because the camera immediately mists over.

Taughannock Falls: the largest single drop falls in the country east of the Rockies.

Seems like a good shot for a Team Anderson photo.

It’s about 10:30 when we turn back toward the bikes. Already the trail is getting noticeably more crowded than when we walked in, so this is another of those places where it’s probably better visiting earlier in the day. The light must be much better too when the sun is still in the east illuminating the canyon.

Back on the bikes, we give our freshly tuned gears a workout and find them satisfactory as we climb up to the top of the falls - a steady 8-9% climb for a mile plus. We stop at the lookout for an amazing view down on the falls from above and then continue climbing. At the top by the terminus of the Black Diamond Trail we find a picnic table in the shade and stop for lunch.

Taughannock Falls, from the viewpoint along the north rim road. I find I’ve been using the expression Wow! quite often lately.

The Upper Falls, an impressive 100 foot cascade above the big drop.

Lucifer Falls

We’re right at the end of the Black Diamond Trail, so we could just coast down it back to town and call it a day. The weather is still fine though, if gradually getting hotter; and it is only about noon, after all. No reason not to swing by Lucifer Falls on the way back.

Lucifer Falls is the highlight of Robert H. Treman State Park, yet another ribbon park encompassing a gorge and creek with a string of falls and rapids. There is an entrance at both the lower and upper ends, and since we’re up already that’s where we head. It’s the right end for us anyway because Lucifer is near the top end and we don’t really have the time or climbing legs for a loop through the whole park.

It’s roughly ten miles from the top of Taughannock to the upper entrance to Treman. Ten very pleasant cycling miles on quiet, unstriped farming roads that gradually climb another three or four hundred feet before steeply dropping to the park entrance. We’re quickly getting very impressed by the cycling opportunities in the Finger Lakes region. Once you get off the main roads there seems to be an endless choice of well maintained, quiet cycling roads to choose from.

We don’t drop for long though. For the next seven or eight miles we gradually roll our way higher, eventually topping out about a thousand feet above lake level.

Video sound track: For all we know, by Keith Jarrett

We find a secluded tree, lock up the bikes, and start hiking downhill toward Lucifer Falls. We’ve seen quite a few falls and done a lot of gorge walking in the last week, and I’ve gotten a bit blasé thinking about seeing another one. But wow. This walk is really amazing, and completely unlike any of the others we experienced. Entering from the north, we walk through a very narrow, sheer sided space that almost feels like we’re entering a slot canyon.

Passing by a minor fall at the upper end of the park.

Walking through this space feels like nothing else we’ve experienced here. Notice also the handrail along the creek, to help prevent people from slipping over the edge and being swept over the precipice just ahead. Oh, wait.

A short distance on the Glen opens up when you come to the top of Lucifer Falls. The trail abruptly becomes a steep, slick stair step drop to the base of the falls. It’s a dramatic walk along the base of the cliffs with the falls roaring right beside you, and not an easy one - Rachael slipped and fell at one point, but fortunately did no more damage than to muddy her shorts.

But wow! What an amazing and intensely beautiful fall. We both thought this was the best fall we experienced here in the Finger lakes.

At the top of Lucifer Falls. The stairs fall off precipitously from here.

It’s a dramatic descent to the base of the falls.

It’s not an easy falls to get a whole shot of because you’re so near it and it bends around the cliffs as it stair steps it’s way down.

Image not found :( — Rachael thinks a panorama just might do the trick though.

She’s right. It gives the most complete photo of the falls.

At the base of the 115 foot falls the trail splits. You could continue walking downstream past more falls to the other end of the park, but that’s not our plan today. Instead we can either double back the way we came or cross the creek on a small arched stone bridge and climb back up the rim trail.

We doubt we’ll see many views climbing back up through the woods, but we choose the Rim trail because you never know. And we’re wrong - maybe the best view of the falls is from this side, at a short walk-in to the base of the falls where the bold can wade the stream and get up close to it.

Climbing back up along the Rim Trail. Actually this isn’t a representative shot though. Mostly it’s stone stairs. A lot of stairs. Steep stairs.

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Ride stats today: 32 miles, 2,300’; for the tour: 1,857 miles, 53,000’

Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km)
Total: 1,857 miles (2,989 km)

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Jen RahnSo, really? You might consider settling in Ithaca?

Like any of your potential home bases, it looks wonderful .. and we would love to visit you there. 🙂
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnWe’re nowhere near ready to settle down yet, but it has piqued our imaginations. I think it’s the first place outside the PNW that we might actually prefer someday. And if we were here, of course you should come and check it out. And bring your bikes. From what we’ve seen so far it seems like outstanding biking country.
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3 years ago

Zelda MekSo glad you found the Black Diamond Trail and T’Falls. They are gems. The BDT was completed not too long ago and it has changed lives because of the car-free approach to the north end of the Falls. And it connects to the Waterfront Trail which is also completed recently.

Lots of ex-PNW people in Ithaca. Many discussions of where PDX is a big Ithaca or Ithaca is a mini-PDX. It is like PDX in years past in many ways. Think late 80s.

Enjoy the next stage!
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3 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Zelda MekI think you’re right about it being like Portland in the past but Portland can’t begin to compete with all the spectacular waterfalls! One of the few advantages of Portland is it doesn’t get as cold in the winter and gets very little snow but I bet it would be a great place to cross country ski with out having to drive a long way.
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3 years ago