That Wheeling Feeling I

May 27, 2023

Part 1

"I don't have to chase extraordinary moments to find happiness. It's right here in front of me if I'm paying attention and practicing gratitude." Brene Brown for the Oglebay Foundation Facebook Page.

Riding and Seeing the Sights of the Metro Area ~18 miles

May 27, 2023

I was Getting that Wheeling Feeling, as the old tourism promotional slogan used to say.

Situated along major transportation routes, such as the Ohio River, the National Road and the B & O Railroad, along with becoming a center for mining and manufacturing made Wheeling an important city. Since the decline of those industries over the past 40 years, or so, Wheeling has seen some hard times. Many of the Victorian style houses and other structures are in need of repair. Buildings that once housed businesses are vacant. Currently, since Downtown is undergoing a makeover, you'll find construction orange everywhere and rough street surfaces. Some people you may meet on the street appear to be down on their luck. Despite all of that, on a recent trip to "The Friendly City," I found a lot to be positive about. Most folks I met couldn't have been nicer. There are some good restaurants, nice local taverns, and great local music to be enjoyed. Check out the Bridge Street Tavern, at 10th and Main, for some good live music on a Saturday evening, if in the downtown area.

In the last chapter, I promised to get back to Wheeling to have a more thorough look around. It took a few months before another opportunity arose. As things often work out, Memorial Day Weekend is when I have some free time for a bicycle getaway. In 2023, that form held true.

Oglebay Park

On a cool Saturday morning, May 27, 2023, I headed out early toward Oglebay Park, which lies about 7 miles Northeast of downtown. Oglebay Park is the former estate of Earl Oglebay, a successful businessman and developer of new farming techniques. In 1926, he deeded his farm to the city for the purpose of public recreation. Today, this self-supporting park attracts residents and visitors from far and wide and for a wide variety of activities. It is a beautiful place and one that I had to check out by bicycle.

The ride out from Downtown involves some climbing. Although Wheeling sits above the flood plain of Ohio River, it is still in the valley. Getting anywhere outside of that river valley requires some serious climbing.

On the National Road, at the top of a climb to the Northeast of Downtown Wheeling. Several roads meet here at an awkward 5-way intersection. Be careful when proceeding through.

I followed the National Road for a couple of miles. The first federally funded highway ran right through the heart of Wheeling on its way from Washington, D.C to Vandalia, Illinois. Today, what is left of it is called US-40. A significant section of the road remains intact in Appalachia, from Western Maryland, through Southwestern Pennsylvania, and on to Wheeling. The National Road is quiet, wild, and scenic in many places. It can be traveled as an alternative to the "newfangled" interstate highways. It is a hilly ride, where several Appalachian ridges must be conquered, but it is well worth it.

I took the National Road, aka US-40, up and over Mount Wood. On top of the mount, there are some good views. Several roads intersect at the top and there is a monument to the Native American Mingo Tribe. You can also look down a very steep Pike Street, which is one of the hills in a very tough Dirty "Dozenesque" local ride.

Looking down Pike Street from the National Road.

Side Note: The Pittsburgh Dirty Dozen is a difficult ride that tests one's cycling prowess. Successful finishers surmount 13 of the steepest hills in the city and adjacent communities. Invented in 1983 by local cyclist, Dan Chew, the ride has achieved wide acclaim and has spawned similar rides in other cities, including Wheeling, which is well suited for it, as you can see.

I continued to follow the National Road, through the Fulton section of town. By the way, check out a good local tavern in that area called Pickles, if you happen to be nearby. I rode past the on-ramp for I-70, and out to a left onto Bethany Pike (SR-88). A road running race was happening that morning and the police were out directing traffic. They were very helpful and courteous to me as I passed through on a bicycle. So were the race volunteers. I turned onto Warden Run Road and then bore left into the park. The area was wooded and the deer were almost tame, allowing me to approach closely without seeming frightened or aggressive at all.

This resting "Oglebay" deer seemed to be only mildly concerned that its photo was being taken.

Besides seeing the park, I was scoping it out for the backyard barbecue event that my wife and I were going to attend later on in the day. A park worker and a ranger gave me good information about where it was located and some tips on beating the crowd. The event had a number of competing barbecue vendors, local brews, and local music. We were able to put our chairs in a shady spot where we stayed comfortable and cool all afternoon. But back to the ride.

Falls Drive led up to a main road, where I found the Wilson Lodge and the park worker. He directed me over to the Good Zoo area, where the BBQ event was to be held, later on that day. On the way, I passed by the golf course, Schenk Lake, and a steel canopy that will support a tunnel holiday lights in about six months or so. At the Good Zoo, I met the park ranger and a couple of other workers who gave me the skinny on how to get into the barbecue event.

The Schrader Environmental Center at Oglebay. I don't think they carry Schrader valves... or Prestas either, for that matter.

A skeleton of the steel canopy structure that will come alive at the Festival of Lights during December.

Eventually, I headed back the way I came. Another climb of Mount Wood was required but it really wasn't too difficult at all. A steady grind in a low gear brought me back to the top for another view of the Mingo monument and the surroundings below. I'll have to come back sometime to climb Pike Street, from Main Street up to the top. Upon arriving back into Downtown Wheeling, I took a short break and then headed out again... to Wheeling Island.

Historic National Road milepost marking 1 mile of remaining travel to Wheeling. At least half of that mile is a significant uphill trek. Must've been quite a journey back in the early 1800s when the road was first opened.

Wheeling Island

A unique feature of Wheeling is an island in the Ohio River, that is a neighborhood and part of the city. The island is connected to the mainland by several bridges. From Wheeling mainland, the only legal way across for a bicyclist or a pedestrian is via the 10th Street Suspension Bridge. Although currently under construction, the bridge that once carried the National Road is accessible only by walking across on a temporary Trex-style walkway. Since it is narrow and there are other pedestrians, walking the bike across is advisable. The walk over gives a chance to see some good river vistas.

Once on the island, I rode a big loop roughly around the perimeter of the island, touching both the Northern and Southernmost points. Immediately upon coming off the bridge, I hung a right turn onto North Front Street. Much of the Northern and Central parts of the island are neighborhoods of older homes situated in rows along the hashtag of streets. North Front Street took me to the Northern tip of the island where there is a park and then a preserve before reaching the waters of the Ohio.

A ball field at the Northern tip of the island.

While wending my way through the maze of streets, I happened upon the now mothballed Aethnaville Bridge. Closed since 1988, the structure once led from the island over to the Ohio village with the same name. Upon having spoken with a local, the bridge is apparently still used by some to get to the Kroger Supermarket in Ohio. While standing at the gate, a young chap came across the bridge on his bicycle, seemingly enjoying his ride around the area as much as I was.

Proceeding a bit further along, there were views of the peaceful back channel of the Ohio River, which separates the western side of the island from the Buckeye State shore. In January, I had briefly ridden on the island, crossing it to get to Bridgeport, Ohio. At that time, I used Zane Street to connect to another bridge, which took me to Ohio. The Zane's were a founding family of this area. They are perhaps better known from the city of Zanesville, Ohio, which lies along the National Road, West of Wheeling.

A view of the peaceful back channel of the Ohio River. That is Ohio, on the opposite shore.

The Wheeling Island casino complex dominates the Southern part of the island. Comprised of a large gambling hall, a hotel, a dog racing track, and large parking areas, it can't be missed as one approaches. People come from all over the area for the entertainment that is offered. In a place where jobs can be scarce, such a large employer and contributor to the local economy is welcomed, despite any downside that the gaming industry may bring.

Although I'm not always the most well informed individual, regarding local news, Wheeling is not all that far away from Pittsburgh, so we do hear about any major news events from there. I've not heard much negativity about the casino. Before Pittsburgh got its own slice of the gaming industry, lots of folks routinely made the roughly 60-mile trip here for the various forms of entertainment that are offered. The dog racing track is a big draw.

As I made my way back, more little neighborhoods were passed through and I ended up in a newly street-scaped area right before reaching the suspension bridge. I crossed again and then made my way back to where we were staying. Main Street is one way, so I went one block to the East but ended up on parts of Market Street and the National Road that were being fed with traffic coming off I-70. It wasn't all that bad because traffic was subdued, at least at this time of the day. However, if you happen to be riding in the area, take good care at that spot.

New street-scaping on Wheeling Island, at South Front Street.

This little family opted out of the casino activities, heading for a little peace and quiet at the Southern tip of the island.

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Today's ride: 18 miles (29 km)
Total: 170 miles (274 km)

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