September 14, 2015
To Donje Milanovac: The Danube Gorge
Today was spectacular. The scenery was just amazing. Yesterday's strong headwind persisted. I'd like to say it just slowed me down to appreciate the views, but I'll admit to being head down fighting the wind for significant distances. I don't think its normal. As I was leaving Vinci, a guy wanted to talk. He said something about the US Open, which I haven't given any attention, and then said the weather was bad. It was sunny and almost 70 C, but I had to agree. Had I been heading toward Belgrade I might not have.
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I rode through the town of Golubac, stopping to change a little bit of money. It's a balancing act. You can't change Serbian money outside of Serbia, so trying to have enough but not too much is challenging.
The fortress st Golubac is undergoing renovation, so you can't tour it, but the road goes under some arches and that's the only way through.
The road goes through a series of 21 tunnels. They're not too long, and although unlit there are reflectors on the walls. I stopped before the first tunnel to turn on my front and rear lights, and took off. Fortunately traffic was light, and I didn't have any problems.
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There is an archeological site at Lipinski Vir. A lot of the area in riding through was changed when they built the hydroelectric station and flooded some villages. The flooding unearthed some artifacts as well. I didn't visit the museum, but I did stop at the site for lunch. I had some fish soup and a sausage sandwich, and took half of the sandwich with me. I don't think the waitress approved.
After lunch there was a long steep climb. It made me appreciate the tunnels that cut through the mountains and prevent the need to climb over them.
I finished the day in Donji Milanovac, one of the towns that was relocated when the hydroelectric station was built. The whole town seems to be a throw back to the 1950's. I asked at the information center about taking a boat ride on the Danube tomorrow, but didn't have any luck. They suggested a place to stay, and after considering some alternatives, I ended up there. I paid at the tourist center. They seem to control things tightly, and that makes sure that the hotel pays the tourist tax and reports the income, and the tourists get the registration certificate needed when leaving Serbia.
I had dinner at a Kafana. I thought I ordered fish soup and a salad, but I also got a plate of fish with lots of potatoes and some bread. It was way too much food, and cost more than my room for the night!
Today's ride: 66 km (41 miles)
Total: 2,433 km (1,511 miles)
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