April 18, 2019 to April 19, 2019
Exploring by foot
Madrid and Toledo
Still no new information on bag from airline or Madrid airport, so have spent more time exploring Madrid and today went to Toledo by train. Been raining on and off for the past 2 days, so wouldn’t have been much fun cycling anyway, especially this afternoon when it got heavy.
The Thursday before Easter in Spain is a public holiday rather than the Monday as we do in Australia. Other than supermarkets been closed would hardly notice a difference has nearly everything else is open. However many museums and art galleries were free to enter so took the opportunity to see some more and to avoid the rain. Often even when they are free they still insist on you taking a paper ticket, what a waste of paper and waste of time for people handing out tickets.
The Museum of the Americas was interesting seeing the impact of Spanish colonisation on the Americas. I assume many of the artefacts in the museum where “borrowed/stolen” from the locals. Can see how their way of life was change, very reminiscent of British impact on indigenous Australians.
My warmshower host Renata, recommend an art gallery called Reina Sofia which was free to enter on the Thursday before Easter and a few other dates, as well the last 2 hours of each day is free also, its opposite the main railway station. I arrived 2 hours before it closed, not knowing it was free all day and got in easily but an hour later the line was long. There is 2 entrances and have been told by Renata that side entrance has shorter lines. Inside it was interesting because each of the 4 levels concentrated on different eras of Spanish history and I was finally able to see some art work relating to Spanish civil war including a Picasso which I only noticed because it was busy with lots of people viewing it. As well there was some Franco era art work. Unlike Eastern Europe where WW2 and communist era are prominent in museums and art work, have noticed so far a lack of focus on the 20th century of Spain instead they tend to focus on royal times, going back centuries. Unlike in Eastern Europe where Russia is blamed for everything, its an internal issue. Therefore I imagine agreeing on history, is harder here
Found some camping stores on one Main Street which have most items I’m missing, so unless good news happens tomorrow morning will go shopping tomorrow. As weather is looking better for the next few days.
Since I knew I would be stuck in Madrid until Saturday, I found a La Liga match which is on Saturday evening located not far from me between Rayo Vallecano and Huesca, currently last and 2nd last on the table so should be a competitive match as both are likely to be relegated from Spain’s first division of men’s Football, especially the loser.
Originally I had looked at cycling to Toledo using suburban train to get out of Madrid as the train to Toledo is only a high speed service and bicycles are not allowed. But since I’m still waiting on bag, decided to experience a high-speed train in Spain and to have a full day in Toledo. Hourly trains run non-stop in 35 minutes between Madrid Atocha and Toledo and other than having to go through security with luggage metal detectors, was a relaxing ride on clean modern trains.
The railway station is outside the historical city of Toledo but only a short an easy walk, crossing the river that forms a horseshoe around the city that is built on a hill, rain stayed away for the morning. Don’t buy map at railway station, as free ones with better information are offered in visitor information centres located in a few places in Toledo. There are also bus and taxi at railway station but it is only a short walk. It was quiet when I arrived by 10am but this would change as morning went on, just like in Madrid some museums were free today. Most museums have a religious focus as Toledo was and still is the religious capital of Spain, while the political capital moved to Madrid nearly 500 years ago. I only visit religious places if they are free as I find the money they spend on buildings is too much for so called charities.
There were numerous people with umbrellas offering free guided tours but nearly all were in Spanish, I found an English version at 11am with yellow umbrella.
As my guide, explained different religions had times when they controlled the city. Some areas are still referred to be religious zones. There is a Jewish area with synagogues, the Islamic faith had control for 400 years and then Christianity has dominated ever since. In fact many mosque were converted to churches by adding parts to the building to change the shape so that people could pray in a different direction. In Spain most Mosque don’t face Mecca instead focused on Córdoba south of here. As that was the spiritual centre of Islam for people in this area. It’s a bit like how Orthodox christians split from Rome. For those not aware up until around 500 years ago, southern modern day Spain was under control by people of Islamic faith before been forced to convert or leave the country when they were finally conquered by the catholic royals to form the area we know as Spain today.
Got lost a few times as the streets are narrows with tall buildings surrounding the not straight roads that often take dog legs routes. For some reason cars are allowed on most roads when there are numerous pedestrians and not much room to fit cars through. There are however people living outside historic Toledo in suburbs. All up Toledo reminded me of Avignon in Spain with a heavy tourist focus on religion and not much sign of locals living there at all. On a sunny day would be a scenic place to go for walks but as rain became heavy in afternoon retreated to railway station.
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