St Jean de Losne to Dijon.

September 10, 2022

The not so simple canal path.

Breakfast on a cloudy morning is day old baguette filled with tomatoes and potato crisps. Crunchy and maybe nourishing. A cup of tea washes it down as we pack up.

And we’re off confident we’ll be in Dijon in two hours max because it’s only 20kms. Isn’t it? Wrong. Seems I’ve been reading the wrong information- it’s clear after 10kms and a sign tells us 19kms to go, that we’ve miscalculated. No matter it’s an easy track isn’t it? Like all the other canal paths? Wrong- it’s rough and better suited to gravel bikes, though in parts it’s compacted well. And we have all day. So no worries.

Leaving St Jean ( not a person, a commune) we start down the path to the canal we see a cyclist ahead and check we’re in the right direction. He replies with a noticeable Kiwi accent that he speaks no French. We chat as we cycle along. He has a boat that he’s just checking into dry dock. He tells us that there’s a community of expats in the area and he’s been coming back for 14 years.

Useful information, though stopping to read takes time.

We part our ways wondering why his French isn’t better after so long. The paths continues with potholes on the right side, so we use the left. In a couple places gravel has been piled into holes. Disaster territory for a laden bike and Ann nearly has a spill.

At this ecluse we find out our distance calculations are out.

At Longecourt en Plaine we come off the path looking for coffee and a boulangerie. Not to be found, but there is a classic car meet in full roar which provides some diversion, as does the old château nearby with its massive towers. Drinks are selling, but an espresso machine- no way. Some kiwi entrepreneurs should get over here.

Finally further on a boulangerie and a supermarket- lunch taken care of, especially since there are tables and chairs under trees beside the canal. Divertingly, since leaving the canal a curious little relationship drama has been re-enacted a short distance from us. It begins as we cycle to the supermarket and observe a young woman, well dressed, in extremely animated conversation on her phone. After we set up for lunch boyfriend arrives speedily in car and we watch as the young woman doesn’t hold back from giving him a verbal lashing. It’s a tour de force performance. By the time we’re onto desert though, they’re in each other’s arms and as we prepare to leave they’re driving off together. Ah….young love.
Soon we’re on the outskirts of Dijon and have found our apartment. We have to cycle through a very crowded centre and get maps of the Burgundy cycle route and the city. The number of old half timbered, Tudor style buildings and other old shuttered ones creates an immediate impact as we cycle through. It looks like a very appealing city.

We check in to Adagio, leave our bikes in their lock up and shop for dinner. The Casino’s self service system is slightly baffling- you can’t get out the shop door without flashing the barcode on your receipt. Wouldn’t work in Pak n Save.

This evening we plan how to get around some of Burgundy without doing the full loop, since the distance is quite long. We think we’ve worked out a route. And sink into a soft mattress looking forward to exploring.

Today's ride: 38 km (24 miles)
Total: 953 km (592 miles)

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