September 8, 2022
Scey to Gray
To Gray on a not so gray day.
Scey to Gray
To Gray on a not so gray day.
September 8 Thursday
58kms
We have a slow pack up and are beaten to our getaway by the Dutch couple and the 3 musketeers- 3 beefy chaps in sporty Lycra who each had their own little tent. Another solo cyclist parked his tent under an overhead shelter - a wise move. The sky’s clearing and our tent kept the elements at bay. We have a good breakfast, but are not away until 10:00am.
It’s just a kilometre or two and then we’re on the cycle path.
The countryside on the route is now showing signs of having been farmed fairly intensively. There are herd of cows- Vache Blanche mostly. Quite long in the body and pretty solid looking. They have what looks like a row of curls on top of their heads, as if they’ve just been taken out of rollers.
Some of the scenes are like pastoral paintings of old. The Voie Bleue guide likes the word bucolic a lot, and indeed bucolic it is. There are grey looming clouds, stubby trees and the horizon is wide.
Went into Soing seeking a coffee fix but nothing to be had. One big plus for little old NZ, is that even in the remotest spots, good coffee is available. Just saying.
We do have a pastry and orange drink at about 11:45am- it’s been a long morning. We also grab the ubiquitous baguette and cheese for lunch.
This we do after Ray sur Saone which requires a little climbing. We look over a lavoir, an old communal washouse, near the church. The church has gold and green tiles and a dome rather than a spire. Just out of town is the site where a ferry operated- it had good use before the bridge was built. Tragically in 1853 an overladen ferry sank with the loss of 16 lives.
We lunch under a cover next to a couple having an animated conversation. They are kayaking the river. We begin to feel the effects of a relentless wind but the sun’s out and I’m able to charge up my phone with the solar panel over lunch.
Onwards beside the river, there’s more water traffic and there are two tunnels for boats. While the boats go through, we climb over! We meet the chap who commandeered the shelter. He’s from near Luxembourg and is heading for Antibes. He’s playing Frank Sinatra from some part of his bike as he rolls past us and we join in ‘I did it my way’.
At Autet there’s a Sandy beach on a bend in the river and a large setup of marquees, tables and chairs. We settle for an ice cream from the kiosk. There’s no one else about. Could it be that the place is jumping on weekends?
Finally Gray arrives. This rather prosaic name is not modern at all apparently, originating ancient times. Amazingly Old Gray looks untouched in either a positive or negative way since the 19th century at least. A slightly faded charm but buildings that immediately take the eye.
We find the office of tourism and the only reasonable hotel in town- the Fer à Cheval . At the address we find we have to wait for 45minutes. Fortunately there’s a wall to sit on just down from another morose and silent waiting one. The wind has eased and there’s no rain, room 105 is just fine - basic 1970s decor (more brown)but clean and comfortable.
Later we walk through the town and up to the old Cathedral- gothic in France compte style. Some of these are a mix of Romanesque and gothic. The streets of the old town are quaint and narrow with a hospital ancien- hospital of the poor, Jesuit school, and lots of closed and forsaken shops.
A kebab and frites from the nearby Turkish shop combined with the remaining salad leaves from lunch, provides dinner and we brew up for a cuppa back in the 70s room. Despite early traffic, all is quiet.
Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 837 km (520 miles)
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